Thanks guys, that's a great help.

G'day, I have another question I can't answer. I found an add for a datsun engine with this picture but I can't figure out what it is. Looks different to my A series. Any one else know?

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Enough information in the picture? Sounds like it's the camira engine from what you guys are saying. The torque converter has Pulsar written on it so I guess the next question is does it have the same bolt pattern on the transmission side as the E15? Just curious.

I was kinda interested in the posts I read about fitting an E series head to an A series engine and interchanging other internals but if it's all different then it's probably of little use to me besides the sensors and the induction side of things.

Looking at the bores they aren't scuffed but they are pretty shiney so I would punt that it was burning oil.

Thanks for the help!

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I was lucky enough this week to pick up an "80's Pulsar" Motor for the cost of a little labour and I'm trying to figure out what it is. There's a bar code with 1.8 E written above it, to the transmission end of the motor, single overhead cam, multi-point fuel injection and has GM stamped all over it. I reckon from what I've read this makes it the 1.8 litre from the Holden Astra and Nissan Pulsar from around 87-90. Apparently Nissan designed, would it based on the E15/16 motor or the CA18?

I'm trying to figure out what might be of use to me, I'd like to stick with the A15 in my coupe for now since that's what it's registered with. I thought maybe I could make up a manifold to go between the intake and the A15 head, port sizes are about 33mm diameter, for an easy mpi conversion.

I was hoping to use the distributor but it is quite different to the A15 distributor in pieces on my bench.

Any thoughts?

By the way it came with an automatic transmission if anyone is interested, the fluid was all clean as it leaked all over me. Torque converter looks to have been replaced and is clean as. The rest I plan to keep until I can figure out what is useful.

I'm being slow with this one. TO clarify I'm dealing with the standard tacho which uses an inductive pick up to measure the current pulsations in the positive supply to the coil. I tried to get my tacho working by replacing the wire coil ballast resistor with carbon resistors without success. In the mean time I picked up a silicon chip high energy ignition kit which allows the removal of the ballast resistor as dwell is programed and compensated for rpm, voltage etc. to form a nice hot spark.

With the high energy ignition setup the tacho works between about 1500 and 3000 rpm, below this range it is dead and above it there is lots of noise. The High Energy Ignition (HEI) has a tach output which would be a nice clean square wave but the problem with this, as illustrated by ddgonzal is the standard tach measures the current pulse, not a voltage pulse.

I see two possible solutions. 1, buy an after market tach and a standard one that is broken and weave the two together, or, 2, use the voltage signal to drive a signal transistor to switch a small current through a coil wound around the standard tach pick up point where the ignition wire goes. For option number two I suppose you would need to know the current that the tach is designed for, then divide this current by the number of wraps in the coil and set the current by choosing a series resistance.

Has anyone else been here before? Any one know what kind of current signal goes through the positive ignition wire? My guess would be a square wave with smothed edges swinging between about 0 and 6 amps.

Hello,

Here's an interesting one for you. I recently bought into the world of Datsun, a nice orange 1200 coupe and the tach wasn't working but it came with a replacement. I put the replacement in with no joy, still no tach action. So then I pulled the wiring loom apart and checked all the connections with everything going where it should. So then I thought I'd plug the tach in directly before the coil and start the engine and here it works.

The car has a performance coil and a wire wound ballast resistor on it and I can only guess that there is enough inductance in the ballast resistor to filter or smooth the current pulses through the rest of the loom enough that the tach doesn't pick it up. It's definately the ballast resitor since the tach works when plugged in after it but not before it. SO if anyone else out there is having a similar problem I hope this helps.

I can see a few solutions, use a few carbon film resistors to match wattage and resistance spec. and hope the inductance is low enough that it works. Use a high energy ignition that doesn't require a ballast resistor. Move the ballast resistor in before the tach and finally run two new wires back to the tach from the coil. I'm going for the carbon film resistors for now, 7x 10R 1W resistors in parallel gets real close to the 1R5 wire wond job. At 44 cents for two it's a pretty cheap fix. I'll let you all know how it goes.

If anyone else has been here maybe you'll have some advise or pick up on something I've missed.

G'day andy-roo,

From an engineering point of view a draw through set up doesn't effect the carby other than how much air has to be sucked through. It sounds like the fuel bowl in the carby is emptying out so I would look at the size of the parts leading up to here, if the pump is sufficient. For example, can you get that much fuel through the needle float set up (assuming this is what there is). maybe you could put a larger needle, seat and valve in it. THis is the only other flow limiting part I can think of for the fuel so have a look there. Hope this helps. In general you need to find the weakest link and fix that.

Cheers

Hey mate, Have you still got the other coupe? Still registered? I'm interested.