Hi there everyone, haven't been on the net for quite some time!

Have some parts for sale;

Pair 600lb King 65mmID x 200mm coilover springs unused but workshop scratches $100

Universal Central locking set new in box 2+4 door $25

120y Grill Badge $10

Stanza 'Datsun' Grill Badge $10

Holley 1-4psi Regulator 12-804 used $20

Ozracing Billet Regulator + Filter, used (need new filter screen or just leave out)
1x -8 Inlet, 1x -8 Outlet, 5x 3/8" Outlet, 1x NPT guage port. $80

Malpass Filter King Regulator and Filter used $40

Will get some photos tonight and find some more bits.

Cheers!

My Z24 180b has cam/dellortos goes very nicely, there is a manifold on ebay right now.

The things welded as tough as nails, I let it cool for 20 mins then put it in a bucket of oil overnight, welded another 4.1 the same way, cleaned it and used castrol syntrax 75w, no issues with it at all quiet as a mouse cant even hear it except for skip skip skip as the tyres scuff around the pits haha.

Get hold of a good gas mig around 200amps is good you need to penetrate both gears and housing, cover ring gear and pinion, stuff something down inplace of axles to keep spline clean, weld the spiders together and spiders to housing, weld all that solid taking time and alowing to cool a lot, make 2 matchbox sized plates out of 15mm plate, grind the bottoms out so they fit sqaure over the welded gears and weld all around to make it all solid. that way nothing moves nothing cracks.

Early model lancer bolt straight onto the two holes on the firewall.

I have 2 staffs, they are good workmates bring you all sorts of useful things to fix the dato with, chewed ice coffee containers, wet kongs etc.

They are longer than the standard strut so your loosing suspension travel, then if you lower the car your loosing more suspension travel, so at some point maybe look at cutting down the tubes and get inserts from a z-car or similar, basically you can just bolt a nice short strut in there and normally get vented brakes at the same time you just have to change the spring seat to a smaller one.

There is a residual valve in the master cylinder for the front brakes, you need to remove it from where the front brake line screws into the brake master, this doesnt sound like your main issue but is essential, i think you maybe need to bleed again, bench bleed your master then bleed longest lines first to shortest lines, wind on your rear drums tight before you do this and re-adjust afterwards. You do not need a booster that only aids in brake feel but is required if you need to engineer.

Pic here is for rear line but same goes for front on a ex-drum brake setup, its the little rubber valve there.




Who said to use the stanza stuff, its a pretty nasty setup.

Are you talking mechanical injection hillborn etc. or electronic?

I think the cheapest way out would be custom manifold with motobike efi throttle bodies, still probably with tuning messing around etc. you'd be close price wise to a well setup pair of webers.

Ahh well might have to give it a miss then, still the L16's not singing along too badly, I think i'll stick with that for now, only about 3 seconds off the pace for U1600's anyway.