Jeff,
I spoke to Craig Wildridge today about having a roll cage build for the coupe, I think he said he did your?
I will come down to EC next month for the next round and if you have the time I would enjoy a chat.

Starting to get some prices and idea of what it will cost to convert, and it is still less then I was planing on spending on Panel and Paint so it's still got the go ahead.

Bryan

Hi Jeff,
I must have mis-read the reg as 100mm either side, so it must be 100mm total, not big deal will get some new flares.
19th sounds like a good idea, check out some cars before making any radical decissions.
Bryan

Hi guys,
Ive owned my little 1200 coupe for about 4 years now.
It sits in the garage as one car too many at the moment so it's time to make a decision.
I have come to enjoy finer ride quality/interior fit road going cars and with a growing family, a two seater coupe isn't the first choice for going to the shops on Saturday.
I'm not keen to get rid of it and have always wanted to get more involved in motorsport, so am thinking of taking the dive into circuit racing.

Most of the work I have done to the car to date has been on the boarder line of race/road so I'm hoping it's not too much big of a jump over the fence.
The car is currently equipped with a forged CA18, with a GT2876r turbo, microtech ECU, eboost 2. Last tune she made 330rwhp @22psi. From my reading of the CAMs regs this will put me in the 3-6ltr class and the 36mm restrictor is going to take a far bit away from the top end. Good thing is it currently make peak hp around 6000rpm but it is making over 300rwph from 4k to redline, not the standard peakie hp you get with a larger turbo.
Supporting setup.
Fuel:
Custom 60ltr alloy fuel tank (two baffles but not foam filled – will need to fix this), 2ltr inbuilt surge tank.
Carter lift pump, bosch 044 main, Fuel labs raising rate pressure reg and filter, custom fuel rail (Dual feed centre return), 660cc injectors.
Cooling:
Two pass copper core rad.

Standard CA 5 speed, lightened flywheel, upgraded clutch (sprung centre but ceramic material).
Custom 3” tailshaft with upgraded uni joints
Hilux rear axle – 4.3 LSD

Suspension.
Shortened Stanza struts with coilover sleeves.
200lbs king springs (300mm free length)
200b peddlers sports rida inserts (will upgrade when I finally settle on front setup).
R31 front callipers with ventilated discs.
Adjustable caster rods – maddat.
Standard strut tops.
King springs reverse eyed rear leaf
Pedders sports rida rears (same deal as fronts – will replace with better).
rear brakes are starion ventilated disc and calipers.

Body is average but is flared – flares are approx 75mm wide from top so should be IPRA legal.
I have a set of TRX wheels and A set of superlite 14”. Looking at the yokohama website the A048 in 14” have limited options biggest are 195/50R14, will that be too small for my needs? 15” you can get 205s and 225s.

Big items as I see it are:
Roll cage.
Seat.
Front brakes
New shocks
New tyres
Trailer

Any advice on this move suggested setup would be greatly appreciated.
Also after feedback on IPRA and race/sprint events in NSW – I’m currently located in Newcastle so will have to travel to race.
Are the race events family friendly?

Cheers

Bryan

1000coupe,
That rule of thumb might be good for NA cars (not willing to comment on that aspect) however with turbos you can tune for a few more degrees timing with octane booster. I had my CA tuned for 98RON and we pushed it even harder with some octane booster. This was around/over 22psi which I don't normally run on the road but often down down the 1/4 mile, for me it's a bit more of insurance when pushing the engine hard - not for every day use.

Bryan

Forged bottom end, stock rebuilt heads (Slight porting), 2876r turbo, 3" exhaust no cat, modified fuel system with 660cc injectors, front mount, Microtech LT10s = 330RWHP @ 22PSI (248Kw).

OK update,
Have the rods now and am awaiting a Quote for the CNC lathe work.
The rods will have 7/8" hex flat machined into one end to allow on car adjustment.
Have made some test Delrin spacers and spring roller made so can check clearances this weekend.
I need to have the CNC lathe work done prior to getting all the parts zinc plated.
I have a bit of a compressed timeframe now as I am moving from QLD to NSW in three weeks.
Non the less I think the wait will be worth it.

Next update will be when the lathe work is completed.

Regards,

Bryan

Ok time for an update.
The tube supplier has been pretty slow but hopefully I should have it this week.
Finally took a closer look at the ute setup today.
To attach the kits to the utes you will have to drill out the inner front spring mount hole, in the chassis rail, to accept a 12mm bolt. The stud on the utes has a step down from 12mm to 10mm at the chassis rail, there is no way around this unfortunately. If you were to remove the traction rods at a later stage you would just replace the bolt with a 12mm 90mm long grade 8 bolt so no real big issue.

Attached are a couple of photos of how it will sit on the ute.



This pic shows the ute mounting plate (original) and stud which holds the front spring eye



This pic shows the step down in the stud, the chassis rail will need to be drilled out to 12mm to accept a 12mm bolt right through. The stud is easily tapped out of the outer mount.



This pic shows the plate and bush mounted on the plate, note that the two outer bolts stop the plate from turning hence the change required in the design of the triangular plates.



Showing the triangular plate and bush on the outside of an original coupe/sedan/120y front spring hanger, it would be possible to do this will normal eyed springs (Reverse eyed springs will not work this way).



Another angle showing the above setup.




New coupe/sedan/120y hanger, triangular plate plus bush sandwiched next to the original spring hanger.

After some searching I have sourced some rod ends with a 3/4 UNF with a 5/8 rod eye, these are Teflon lined at a reasonable price. So am looking at going back to a 3/4 UNF L/R thread in each end of the rod (No plug reducing to 1/2 UNF thread).

Will keep you posted when the next round of parts arrives.

Bryan

noticed I hadn't updated my timeslip.

CAR: 1200 coupe
MOTOR: CA18DET
G/BOX: manual CA18
DIFF: Hilux 4.3 LSD
TURBO: garret GT2540R (20psi)
EXHAUST: 3"
WHEEL/TYRE: Toyo RA1 205/55R14


60FT:1.902
1/4MILE: 12.627 @112.02MPH

Hi guys,
Yeah thanks for doing the run off thread.
I have a Hilux installed in my coupe, 1410mm without shortening, I have adapted a set of Starion ventilated rear brakes onto mine. There is a mob in Sydney who make an adapter plate for R31 rear calipers which might be more popular for 1200's.

Chris from QPDC in QLD (I am sure he is a member on here) has one in his Sedan, the lucky bastard managed to fine one that will fit without shortening (wheels fit under the Sedan arches) unsure of the model Hilux but he said it was an early version.

LSD, Trutrac, Lokka are pretty common (expensive) for these, any G series Toyota third member should fit, be careful with the 4.7:1 carriers as they don't fit other ring gears/pinion combinations in the third member.

I have a 4.3:1 LSD in mine, if I can find a 3.9:1 or 3.7:1 gear set I might change it but in 5th CA manual box with 205/55R14 it cruises at just over 3000rpm @ 100Kph.

Hi guys,
Quick update. I have sourced the 4130 tube and should have it in my hands on Saturday.
I had a small issue that I needed to overcome but hopefully I have a solution.
The issues is with the 50mm width of the 1200 spring and the bushed rod ends. The bushed rod ends are 1 1/4" wide ~= 32mm so add two 5mm plates to that and you are up around the 42mm wide plus welding filet, this would encroach on the u-bolt nuts.

My version 1 setup used a solid bearing rod end which is only ~ 16mm wide so with the 5mm plates that makes 26mm leaving 24mm for the filet weld and u-bolt nuts, not a problem. Also it was almost impossible to find a 3/4" UNF to 1/2" hole rod end at a reasonable price (these were over $100 each).

So the kits will now have one solid rod end and one urethane bushed rod end. This means less flex in the kit but I still think it will be better for the street then two solid rod ends. One end of the rod will have a 4130 hex plug in it containing the 1/2" thread for the solid rod end, the hex section will facilitate on car adjustment with a 1" spanner. There will also be a left and right hand jam nut at either end.

The roller that sits on the spring will have a Acetal (Delrin) spacer. Delrin was chosen as it has a low Coefficient of friction and good mechanical properties, these are designed to wear (instead of your leaf spring) so I am happy to throw two sets in with the kit.

Price is still pegged at this point to be approx $400.

Hopefully it is all steam ahead next week, the parts are starting to come together nicely now.

Cheers

Bryan