PIGDOG and Dazza1200,
I don't mean to be rude but you are getting off topic, might be best to start another thread about hilux diff installs, which I would be more then happy to contribute too to let you know all about my hilux install.

Thanks

Bryan

thanks mate.
Also forgot to mention the bolt that sits on the spring will have a roller attached to allow for spring movement with less friction (Not shown in the pics above).
With two urethane rod ends the kit should be really streetable and allow you to put more pre-load (Solid rod end kits are recommend to allow a gap between the roller and top of the spring, this makes the kits noiser on the road as the roller rattles around) however, with the urethane rod ends the urethane should flex as the spring compresses this will alow you to put some pre-load for street use (reduced rattle) and for strip just increase the preload by twisting the rods as required.

The urethane setup is not as precise as bearing rod ends but much quieter, compliant system for a road car in my opinion.

Hi guys,
Things are progressing. I got the first set of plates back from the Laser cutter today. Am having some issues with obtaining a tube supplier in Brisbane but haven't reached that stage as yet so have't pushed too hard.
A few update pic are attached. Please note this kit will require you to weld on the rear tabs onto your lower diff spring mount, therefore it makes them universal and should not matter what diff you have.



Not the right style rod end but used for a mock up.



side view
Version 1 (left side) compared to version 2 trangular plates - (Version 1 plate is zinc plated) Also shows the new bush setup.



side view showing hanger plates required for 1200 coupes and sedans - also would be required for 120y's.



version 1 on my coupe with hilux diff

ute update
with a small modification to the trangular plates as shown below, the kit will bolt upto the outside of the ute spring mount, this would require you to punch the stud out that holds the front spring eye and mount the modified plates and bushes. This would be an easier setup then the coupes and sedans.



example of how the trangular plates would need to be modified to fit utes and wagons.

yeah except the utes and wagons don't have detachable front spring hangers like the coupes/sedans. They are welded to the chassis rails.

ROConnor, I will PM you the exact cost of the plate set once I work it out individually.

Cheers

Bryan

wow I'm supprised, there is probably a bigger market then i expected, I will look at the ute setup tomorrow,
ROConner, that should be no problems with suppling any or all of the kit, price for the plates alone will be pretty cheap, is it for a coupe? As I said in the first post the driving cost for the kit is really the rod ends.

Cheers

Bryan

Hi 44lex,
I have a ute shell at home so will look into adapting a kit for the ute.
The issues I am struggling with on the ute is the way the kit would bolt up, I don't like the traingular plates to be compressed against the spring bush, so at this stage I am thinking of adapting the kit to go on the outside of the spring mount. I will drop the spring in my ute over the weekend and can assess the situation better once I get a good look. I'm not sure if it would look crap though (bolted on the outside), the Coupe version seems to have worked nice and neatly, I don't think the ute would look as good.
I will keep you posted.

Bryan

Hi littledarkone,
No I haven't sold of the Version 1's, these were only produced as a prototype to iron out any issues.
The only thing I didn't like about version 1 was the trangular hanger being in direct contact with the spring bush and the bearing rod ends transmit too much noise for a road car.

I did put the car down the 1/4 with them on and managed a 12.6 @ 116MPH with a 1.9 60ft (was using toyo RA1 205/55 on the rear = lack of traction).
I will be completing a kit in the next week and installing onto my car so am happy to keep you posted.

cheers

Bryan

Hi guys,
I'm in the process of making v2 of my traction rods and was wondering if there was a market for this type of thing.
These are currently designed for a Coupe so would only suit 1200s with the same front leaf spring setup as the coupe (I think the sedan has the same setup), but not the ute at this stage.

Here are a couple of pics of my v1, which is currently in use on 2 cars.










The new version - v2 has a stepped washer either side of the spring bush and the triangular plate slips over the step, this take the load off the triangular plate unlike v1 where the plate is compressed into the spring bush as shown in the picture above.
v2 will also have urethane rod ends to be more street able (male type - 3/4 UNF thread one left and one right hand thread) and I was going to use 1" 4130-4140 4mm thick wall tube instead of the rod shown in the above picture.

All flat plates in the kit are either 4 and 5mm Mild steel and all profiled components are either laser cut or CNC lathed to ensure they are accurate. As stated above the rods will be thick wall 4130 or 4140 steel tube, the rod ends will be urethane rod ends (these are the items that are driving the price as I can’t find a manufacturer for them, so am stuck with one of two race car companies who supply these parts as retail prices), I can supply the kit with bearing rod ends and this would actually reduce the price somewhat however this comes at the expense of street ability as they transmit more diff/road noise directly into the chassis.

The rods will have a nut tig welded to one end to allow adjustment on the car.

The kit is specifically designed for the 1200 it would include:
New front spring hanger 2 inner and 2 outer (you would need to remove your current ones and re-use your bolts – the ones that go through the chassis rail),
4x triangular plates
4x rear mounts (these would need to be welded onto your diff mounting plates).
2x 1” thick wall traction rods
2x LH urethane rod ends and lock nuts
2x RH urethane rod ends and lock nuts
All bolts required with nyloc nuts (except re-used chassis rail bolts, nuts and washers)
All parts except bolts will be zinc coated

It would be recommendable to replace your old spring bushes and chassis bushes whilst your at it (FIY the chassis bushes are not available off the shelf, I used the rear mount ones and bored the centres out to suit the front bolts).

A this point I have the v2 parts being laser cut this week, I will be getting 6 kits cut, which leaves 3 spare as I will be retrofitting the two in use and have a third car lined up to be fitted.
The projected cost would have to be around the $400 mark for this batch.

If anyone is interested please let me know (PM please).

Regards

Bryan

Yes mate that is what you need to do.
You need the pressure in the fuel bowl to equal the manifold pressure.
The basic working of a carbie is that the venturi effect caused by a change in carbie cross section of the air flowing through it resulting in a pressure differential between the fuel bowl and intake air (look up the equation for Mass flow of air - mass flow does not change nor does density as at this velocity it is considered a non compressible gas, so a change in cross sectional area has a resultant change in pressure and velocity), end result, fuel moves from bowl to mix with air due to the pressure differential. In NA cars the reference pressure is atmospheric (i.e little hole on top of carbie is vented to atmosphere and the only pressure change is the caused by the venturi effect).

However, in a blow through turbo situation the reference pressure should always be the inlet manifold pressure, this is because on boost the reference pressure changes as the inlet air is no longer base lined on atmospheric, as it is being compressed by the turbo. In this scenario if the fuel bowl pressure is left at atmospheric then you have a higher pressure of air pushing against the fuel, you may even see the fuel coming out of the reference hole on top of the carbie.

If the reference pressure between air flow and fuel bowl is maintained, then the only variable is the pressure change due to the venturi effect, this will result in the carbie work the same as NA, regardless of the reference pressure. The other issue here is fuel pressure, which I think you have already rectified with a raising rate fuel pressure regulator.

Sorry if it is overly technical.

Bryan

Good to hear you got it all working.
Did you end up blocking the breather hole on the carbie? I would have and in the past have, feed it back to ensure you maintain a equil head of pressure on the fuel when on boost, if you up the boost furture blocking it off may cause you problems in the future, just something to keep in the back of your head.

Gratz on getting the setup working properly though

Bryan