Sell you one, you can have one. Do you want an FM one or do you want the stock AM one?

How about the GA16DE out of the N14/15 Pulsar. The one I have in my Pulsar is very quick, someone mentioned they come close to fitting the standard A series bell housing, but have the problem of the dizzy coming out the back of the engine. Using the MA09/10 or the SR16DE would have the same problem with the distributor, I believe, as they are front wheel drive engines also. Given the history of motorsport in Adelaide, I'd guess there was somebody who could help you over there, Adelaide was home to Elfin, K&A, Globe, CSA, etc. A one off cast bellhousing to suit a T3 corolla box, with a H165 diff behind it all would be how I'd go about it. Dellow Automotive has a bellhousing to suit the A series, maybe one of these can be modified to suit. Would be quite a lot of fun in a 1000 ute. Also ask DVR1000 about his front brake conversions if you do the 1000.

Rather sell it here than on Gumtree at the moment

ITEM:
Looking to sell a 1980 Sunny sedan either as a rolling shell, or a going car, or something in between. I'm the third owner & it's had various A15's over it's career as a race car. It needs a bit of attention to stone chips on the bonnet & somehow on the roof. & it's Beige. Was famous on the NSW supersprint 'circuit' as the 'Beigemobile' or That Bloody Sunny. At the moment it's got standard front struts & a H165 Stanza rear end with probably a 3.7:1 diff. It can be sold as is, or with an A15 & 60 series 4 speed or 5 speed, or with some 200B struts with adjustable spring perches & 10 inch discs & calipers, or with an L series (L18 or 20B) & a Stanza 5 speed, or various other combinations.

REASON FOR SELLING:
I bought Leigh Davidson's (Lagwagon) Sunny with the SR20 & have a couple too many cars, plus I need some cash to buy the new seat (I'm sitting on the seat, not in it!)

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS:
That depends on what you want. Looking for about $1500 for the rolling shell, which has a complete interior, & a sports dash including a tacho, but no radio ( I can supply one of them, too).
EXTRA INFO:
Photos can be supplied to interested parties, but there are a few here in the racing category in the photo album, including a really good shot out of the dipper at Bathurst. That's it in my avatar picture, looks good doesn't it. Would love to keep it, but the management has Spoken.



LOCATION:
Sydney NSW Aus.

CONTACT:
Paul Fitzgibbon
0439-246-659 after 5 PM (no phones allowed at work, the BASTARRRDS).
or PM me here.

Could be for the driving lights. I used the cigarette lighter hole to mount the switch for some Bosch driving lights, maybe the owner is a smoker. OR it could be for the elephant gun.

Just watched on Foxtel here in Australia the first Improved Production race from Adelaide & on the first row was a 1200 coupe, probably with an SR20 turbo. Pole position, amazingly, was a 2 litre Honda Civic. The 1200 shot into the lead at the flag drop, but only lasted 2 laps before losing boost & retiring. The race was won by a Toyota Sprinter with a 3SGE turbo, from the Civic. A couple more 1200 Coupes were through the field, plus a 1600(P510) that head-butted the wall & a Bluebird (P910). There's 2 more races over the weekend, probably one tomorrow & one Saturday. Maybe a 1200 will last long enough to win. The Sprinter wasn't catching the 1200 at all, until the lost boost. Who knows if it'll make the TV overseas, but it'll probably be on YouTube. It's worth watching for the save the Civic driver made at the first chicane, was a major pile up avoided by great driving.

Don't forget to support the manifold with a brace down to the block, or you get cracking around (through) the bottom of the front inlet runner. This happened to both manifolds I had, I sold the first one broken, then had the second one repaired. There is a factory brace there, but ignorance on my part meant it was left off. The manifold itself is top heavy, so it rotates around the studs, & obviously cracks. Making a support wouldn't be too hard, just some round hollow steel tube. Measure the length needed, add a bit both ends, then flatten the end in a vice & drill some holes to bolt it through. I had the cracked section fall right out, causing a massive vacuum leak.

Another B310 wagon starts. Just a tip that I found with my wagon. The tailgate doors are usually stuffed & don't hold the door up. Don't try & get exact replacements, they'll be NLA. So just get the ball ends from another car, mine were from an N15 Pulsar, but you should be able to find some that fit. You can then get replacement struts that match the length of the originals, screw the ball ends into the holes & pop the struts on. I wish I could do the same with my B310 coupe, but no such luck. Also, if the demister fan only works on the top speed, the resister wires for the lower speeds has broken. This is on a pop out panel on the fan housing under the dash. A small nut & bolt should reconnect the wires to the contact.

I was going to attend their next meeting in February (first Tuesday every month at Eastern Creek) but I live about 10 minutes away. Bit of a trip from Newcastle. If your looking at their Facebook page, there must be some contact details. A couple of members here are also members, maybe they'll see this. The only clubs I can think of up your way is the MG Car Club of Newcastle or Westlake Auto Club. They both 'should' have Web pages, & being locals, would probably be just as good for you as a Sydney based club. I know a couple of Westlake members, great bunch of people to hang out with.

Just wondering about the twin row timing chain. All the pictures of the KA24DE I've seen have single row timing chains. Is this chain stock with the US market engines? Is the chain from the crank to the idler single row or double? I've just been trolling through EBay for rebuild kits& they all seem to be singles.