I have the Nokia Lumia 820 with Windows Phone 8 software and love it. It was a $0.99 upgrade to the plan and the only one that cheap to offer 4g, so it was a no brainer. Ease of use in my opinion is better than i Phone, so that means I'd be lost on android. :P Anyways, the screen is huge compared to the iPhone. Apps aren't as available as most, but unless it is a really special app you need, then the stuff you need or want is available. I found file transfers were easy too, just plug up to the PC and drag and drop files. No special hardware, though Nokia has a software suite for free download that connects good. My first of the phone was stolen about 3 months after I got it, but everything ends up save to your skydrive account, so once I got my replacement it took 5 minutes to configure the phone contacts back to the way they were. Photos I took were there too. (plus some self-portraits of the thief!) I hear great things about the Galaxy, but I can't complain about this one.

I like both colors personally, but the green you went with is similar to the one I used. It looks real similar to Toyota Envy Green. Smashing progress for such a cramped time frame.

JMAC - As always, such an informative response. I actually copied and pasted it for future reference. Well put!

If you have little to no experience painting I would recommend a solid non-metallic color as it will be easier to get even coverage and you won't have to worry as much about unevenness in the way the material lays out. I did my first paint job with single-stage urethane and did it outdoors. The paint laid out great and looked really good in a solid color. You can do metallic, but you should take some tips from a painter and have some handling experience with the paint gun first. Also, with metallics remember that you should do a two-coat where you have the base color coat and cover it with a clear coat. Some clears are easier to use than others, I used AxoNobel's Wanda Clear. I'm no painter but frankly it laid out great and flowed out to the point I decided not to cut and buff it out on my 1200. Availability will dictate.

Of course for all I know you're a pro already

Just have fun and take your time no matter which way you go.

1st vehicle was my 1982 Datsun 720 extended cab 4x4. I have had it for 16 years now. Will keep it forever. Converted it to a KA24E.

2nd 1993 Nissan 240SX

3rd 1996 Honda Civic EX (Hated that car)

4th 1972 Datsun 1200 Working on it. Have a CA18DE swap in it right now.

5th 1991 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4

6th 1986 Nissan 720 with a Z22ET

Please don't give me any grief over the fender mirrors. I got them for free and I put them where I could see them easily.

So we moved our shop and I had to stop working on the car for a while. During the Christmas holiday I got a go at working on the 1200 so I started fitting everything to it. The door weatherstrip was actually easy and fit well. I got the kit off of ebay from Thailand. Initially was kind of worried, but it seems to work out pretty good. Fit fine.

I had the door locks fixed and the tumblers changed to a new key so I hope locking and unlocking the doors works out better than before. I had deleted the trunk badge and the rear datsun badge, but kept the DATSUN on the rear quarters.

So far everything fit good, I only wish the bumpers I had were worth a darn. I have two sets and put on the best of the two, but I might pay the money and have the bad ones fixed and re-chromed down the road at some point.















http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m ... kc/wfmir2_zpsd2f459c9.jpg

Still filthy and haven't given it a good bath, but it is definitely closer to being out on the road.

If you change the bell housing it will still remain the same length. The bellhousing is literally the same except in some cases the ribbing is more extensive and the front countershaft bearing is larger (should be 62mm.) The shortest FS5W71C transmissions are in the D21 if I remember correctly. The "C" trans is a marked improvement in reliability over the "B" trans, though many inner components appear the same. In basic "C" form you get a double cone syncronizer on 2nd gear, wider gears and a stronger input to countershaft setup, as well as an improved shift mechanism. These are big changes that make this transmission much better.

Without making induction and exhaust mods you pretty much limit yourself to nearly insignificant improvements. I mean how much you want to spend and what you'd like to accomplish are a good starting point.

I think a search of the thousands of posts from over the years and the Tech Wiki would probably render the answer faster than going through this thread here. Hard to think you're not the only one to want to see what the ol' A12 can do.

Unfamilia - CA anything is pretty much rare here in the US. The CA18DE motors only showed op non-turbo in the pulsar and for the most part folks bought those cars with GA16 motors. I have only seen a couple CA18DE motors in the US. All rear wheel drive dual cam CA motors have to be imported. We did get the CA20E and the CA18ET in the s12 200SX, but that's about it. The funny part is how we DO have lots of parts available here.

As soon as I'm done cutting and buffing this car I think the process of getting it road ready should go faster. Still lots of work to do. Doesn't look like the best, but I hope it turns out tidy.