This has all been discussed before, so if someone can find my old posts there is all the info there. Search "spring loaded locker"
I dont know how to post a link to the old discussion.
Hello to all those old members that are still around.
paul.

Well I have to say that I am just about over it, there seems to be many differences and soooo many bugs I am at a point of changing my home page. I agree that Daniel has done a mountain of work to set things up and help fix any bugs but i am sick of clicking on a post and then being taken to the last post, then I have to go back to the first post to see what its about. Can someone help me out here or do I change my homepage so I dont have to be reminded of my browsing shortcomings.

Can someone tell me why I cant find "MY PHOTOS". On the old site when you were logged inn there was a button that said "my photos" but I cant find it on the new site.
Also can someone tell me how to make the first post the one that comes up whenever I double click a topic on the home page. At the moment it is taking me to the last post. Thanks.

Well, I'm happy with a user name that's priceless

1200coupe.......go figure
Should be worth a fortune one day

You want about 25 - 30 mm between the gearbox seal and the shoulder on the front uni nose when the car is on the ground and at rest. When your rear suspension is in BUMP (compression) the nose of the tailshaft will be pushed further into the rear gearbox seal because the arc lenght of the geometry is reduced therefore forcing the tailshaft spigot into the rear of the gearbox.
Maybe when your rear springs were straightened the diff nose position moved forward. It is important to check the clearance when car is at rest on the ground, jacking it up, again depending on the geometry might cause changes. Measure it at rest and if there is 20+ mm clearance its all ok. Remember the 20+ mm will be at its longest distance when car is on the ground and reduce as rear suspension goes into bump or rebound.

You will wreck the spring if you attempt to heat it. The mechanical properties will change and the changes will be inconsistent so best not to try this at home. Find the right replacement spring. Search for spring suppliers online. I think "Precision Springs" would have what you need and it shouldnt be too costly.

Corner weigh a ute then a coupe and compare the difference. I used to have this info but cant find it. The ute is lighter, you would probably have to ballast up the ute rear to get grip. You will find that most good rally cars have rear springs that are much harder than the stock coupe springs. If you were to rally on stock coupe springs you will find the rear end smashing into the bump stops everytime you went over a jump or hit a decent bump at speed. Continually allowing this to happen will lead to a cracked chassis etc.
There is the odd ute being rallied but you will find that it is a very different kettle of fish to set up so you have good drive out of the corners.

Hi olboy,
I know your car, no offence but being an auto, it will be a pig to turn in during tight khana's. Keep an open diff in it OR go with a "low torque" plate type LSD. If you want it to react quicker on turn in then space the front rims outwards about 3mm and see how you like it. Its cheap,does the job and suits your application. Just watch the oversteer on the way out of the turn, but it usually means more fun in the tight dirty stuff.

Why dont you see any 1200 utes rallying, A12 or 14......Answer is simple!

NOGRIP