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Re: Proper bolt tightening for 4 blade white plastic fan.
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Real butchers had this 620 before I got it.

EXAMPLE: They put a Rochester Monojet on it. The plywood adapter was cut out with what appears to have been a screwdriver and a hammer (!). The carb has a 2-bolt flange. They put one on a manifold stud, then aligned it diagonally and put a large washer on the manifold stud to "clamp the flange down". HOWEVER, showing some actual intelligence put a loose nut on the opposite side of the washer so when it was clamped down, it did not cock.

The truck has 130k on it and the clutch is still working. I don't know if the OE would last that long. Because of the vibration, I'm thinking they may have screwing something up IF they put a clutch in it. Judging on the work done, I doubt they would have taken the flywheel off (unless of course they ran the plate rivets into it.)

I won't inspect the clutch until I have to replace it. (and at that time I'll put my 1980 L20b 720 wide ratio 5-speed in it.) (If I ever get a 2nd car, I may just pay someone to do that job.)

Posted on: 5/7 23:30
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Re: Proper bolt tightening for 4 blade white plastic fan.
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UPDATE: Bolts hammering and slotting pulley holes AGAIN (and bolt safety tabs still in place.)

I'm going to drill and tap a 5th hole in the flange and pulley so I can put a cap or button head screw to positively clamp and hold in the place the pulley onto the flange. I'll scarf out some bolt head clearance on the back of the fan.

Then the wonky, loose fan bolts only hold the fan on and as they loosen (for whatever reason) the bolts will not hammer out the pulley.

Posted on: 5/5 17:44
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Re: Proper bolt tightening for 4 blade white plastic fan.
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L18 Engine Vibration

Mine has a significant balance vibration (not some miss or ignition thing) that I can feel in the steering wheel, floor shifter and inside the cab in general. (I owned a 72 510 back in the day and never noticed any vibration issue - but that was many decades ago.)

This vibration loosens bolts all over the place (I've heard other people having the same experience.)

If I even have to put a clutch in, I would have the flywheel and clutch balanced just to be sure - BUT is this a Wild Goose Chase? - Do these engines simply vibrate like that?

OTHER ENGINE EXPERIENCE: no such vibration:

I had a 1600, 2002 and 2002tii BMW and there was no such vibration - in fact, the 1600 felt like an electric motor with a total absence of even the slightest vibration. it also wanted to rev forever (the 2.0's were completely different, not electric smooth and you could tell they were "straining" at redline.

Posted on: 5/5 17:09
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Proper bolt tightening for 4 blade white plastic fan.
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I had a catastrophic failure where I used Loctite instead of the bent metal tabs to keep the bolts from loosening. They did loosen. The pulley slid on the pump flange and the bolts hammered circumferential slots in the pulley (at least 1/2" of slot!). The pulley was also cutting into the bolts and eventually DECAPITATED THEM tossing the fan and destroying the radiator.

COOL OT RAD STORY: I had a alum aftermarket rad for a L20b in my L18 620. As soon as I bot that rad, some guy on eBay had a bunch of Eagle 481 proper brass rads for the 620 for something like $40 shipped (!) I was totally pissed - especially since it was the OE type. But I was so pissed I bot one anyway, put it on the shelf and laughed that I would never use it. (!) Talk about Serendipidy!

I reassembled with new tab strips and locked the bolts heads proper and tightened to a point where I thought I might be crushing the plastic fan.

Time passed....

Today I discovered my crank bolt was completely loose and backed out maybe 1 turn - it turned freely with 2 fingers and felt like a new bolt and crank - it was that smooth.

But I also found that the fan was slipping on the pulley a bit - the bolts were still safety tabbed.

The fan did not slip on the pulley when I assembled it, so that meant I had lost clamping force. I have not removed it yet, but I am concerned that if the fan is slipping, it's possible the pulley is slipping on the flange which could start the "slotting" failure I originally experienced.

So how to get this stack of parts to stay put?
Epoxy?
A Stud Bolt would be a great solution
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300247310/#

Posted on: 5/5 6:04
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Re: BCDD Adjustment and Bench Testing
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The Tomco kit has what appears to be a gasket between the BCDD assembly and the carb body.
Clearly NO diaphragms.

Posted on: 5/5 5:44
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Re: BCDD Adjustment and Bench Testing
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ddgonzal: Thank you so much for the BCDD pages from the engine manual

My DCH-340-12 has the solenoid.

Mine was working last time I rebuilt the carb, now it is not working - it does nothing.

I seem to recall the adjusting screw was similar to the idle screw: turning it CW resulted in more hang. ALSO gently pushing the adjusting screw is equivalent to turning it in (CW) - you can feel the servo action on the diaphragm. Currently nothing happens no matter how I adjust screw.

It is my understanding that when the solenoid is energized, the BCDD is turned off.

There are articles about how to keep solenoid energies to completely disable the BCDD.

To disable, why not remove the solenoid plunger which appears to be a needle valve that is opened when energized

Last time I rebuilt carb, I wanted to disassemble the BCDD to check the diaphgarm (is there just one? cutaway drawing is too complicated) but I aborted because I was afraid that I would tear the diaphragm trying to separate the housing halves - the diaphragm adheres to the sealing surface with great force. If one HAD to remove, perhaps heating with a blow dryer would help separation.

I think I'm going to try to bench test my 2 spare BCDD's before I rebuild the carb.

NOTE: the Tomco 5321D kit is amazing - has 4 air horn gaskets including the one I need that I have NEVER been able to find in a kit. Talked with Tomco and they consolidated kits that varied by only a gasket of two reducing the typical kit inventory of 600 to 200. So the 5321D is the Gold Standard in my opinion. AND the gaskets and needle/seat are alcohol resistant.

Posted on: 4/24 17:07
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BCDD Adjustment and Bench Testing
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I'm dealing with a L18 DCH340 which is running lean when in the primary before the secondary opens. I'm trying to independently test and confirm the BCDD is functional - of course it has to be adjusted if necessary. (I don't want to be dealing with a malfunctioning BCDD when sorting this lean issue.)

Adjustment of the BCDD appears to do nothing. (I'm never had a BCDD behave this way.)

The solenoid is working.

I've read the Tech Wiki on it and under the Adjustment section, I simply do not understand Steps 1 and 2:

1. Run the engine under no load [in neutral]. Increase engine rpm to 3,000 to 3,500 rpm, then quickly close throttle valve. At this time, the manifold vacuum pressure increase abruptly to -23.62 inHg or above and then gradually decreases to the level set at idling.

2. Check the the BCDD operating pressure is within the specified range.


QUESTIONS about 1):
"level set at idling" - the vacuum level at idle cannot be set. I don't understand.
"gradually decreases" - I would never use the word "gradually", "quickly" would be more appropriate. What am I missing?

QUESTION about 2):
"Check the BCDD operating pressure" - no instructions are given how to do that.

What I remember from like 8 years ago (and I have a terrible memory), is that the BCDD introduces an "Idle Hang" when you abruptly lift on the pedal. Adjusting the BCDD will lengthen or shorten the duration of this "hang."

I also noticed back then when the BCDD is "operating" there is a very loud hissing that is unmistakable coming from the carburetor. If the BCDD was incorrectly set and it was hissing all the time meant it was "stuck" at the "hang" state even when idling.

Anyhow, I am chasing gremlins and have a new Tomco 5321D kit to change everything in the carb and also a new choke pulloff to replace the dead one, but I'd like to bench test my BCDD's (I have 2 spares) to confirm the one I put on the carb is good.

Posted on: 4/23 4:59
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Teck Wiki link to DCH340 vs Weber 32/36 Comparison
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Dimequarterly stuff all gone.
Would like to read that article.
Having terrible time getting right air horn gasket for my L18 DCH340.

Posted on: 3/29 0:58
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1974 620 Stock Exhaust System Diameter(s)
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I want to get a stainless stock exhaust fabricated. I thought it was 1.5" but the front muffler clamp (20643-B5000) diameter appears to be 45mm (1.75") from one Russian parts site.

What is on my truck suggests it is 1.5 inches.

If the exhaust pipe is 1.75, then what size is the tailpipe? (could be either 1.5 or 1.75)

I have had zero luck - no one seems to know this.

Thanks
Tom

PS. Exhaust is made from Tube (not Pipe). Tube Diameter is the OD

Posted on: 2021/8/26 4:52
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1974 620 Stock Exhaust System Diameter(s)
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2015/10/31 1:41
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I want to get a stainless stock exhaust fabricated. I thought it was 1.5" but the front muffler clamp (20643-B5000) diameter appears to be 45mm (1.75") from one Russian parts site.

What is on my truck suggests it is 1.5 inches.

If the exhaust pipe is 1.75, then what size is the tailpipe? (could be either 1.5 or 1.75)

I have had zero luck - no one seems to know this.

Thanks
Tom

PS. Exhaust is made from Tube (not Pipe). Tube Diameter is the OD

Posted on: 2021/8/26 4:52
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