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   All Posts (L18_B110)


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Re: Wow, Datsun1200 turbo
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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awesome stuff Simon!

Posted on: 2018/11/13 5:06
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Re: Heater hose at rear of head, datsun 1000
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I'm not sure what size they are on the old Dattos anymore, but on my oddball jap-import cars I normally use commodore heater hoses cut down. They're long, cheap and have 90 or 180 bends in them at one end. Supercheap keep them ont he shelf so you can size them up for yourself and find something that will do the job.
You can also get unicoils to bend straight hose without it kinking.
There's also universal Z hoses in various sizes.
or you could use 90degreee brass fittings from Pirtek etc for bends in really tight places.

Posted on: 2018/6/26 3:51
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Re: Handling appears to be fixed.
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Good to hear mate! Well done

Posted on: 2018/5/14 2:22
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Re: cross member bolt holes
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if it's badly damaged, you could unpick the towers and weld them to your x-member

Posted on: 2018/4/8 22:38
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Re: Trimming front lower fenders
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Put masking tape over the area and start drawing where you want to trim it. Re-apply and re-draw until you're happy with the shape. You don't need to take a whole lot off.
This was with a 185/60x14 tyre with a heap of extra castor and wide track, all of which increase the chance of the tyre fouling that front lower corner.
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Posted on: 2018/3/26 5:26
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Re: Mmmm The handling still needs work.
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yep, based on the pics it looks like both of those arms could be working against the movement of the leaf.

sway bar arm is much shorter than the leaf so it will be travelling a different arc to the leaf, and it's almost solid mounted to the leaf - there's no link pin to take up any difference in dynamic lengths. You could test for a bind condition there by disconnecting the end of the sway bar and jacking up the diagonally opposite corner to compress the leaf 2-3". If the sway bar no longer lines up with it's mount on the leaf spring, that's an issue. Then test for bind in droop by jacking the front up on the same side of the car.

Do the same with tests with the traction rod unbolted at the rear. If the mounts don't align at 2-3" of droop and bump, you've got bind.

Posted on: 2018/3/22 6:30
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Re: Mmmm The handling still needs work.
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Let me rephrase... Bind doesn't always mean a complete sudden stop like hitting bump stops. Hitting bump stop will certainly cause big snap oversteer, which as you is not what you are experiencing.
Bind means anything that is restricting the suspension from it's normal operation/movement. It can be an additional arm (eg traction rod) that is a slightly wrong length or set at the wrong angle and ends up fighting the movement of the leaf spring as they travel different arcs. Don't forget a cambered leaf spring's length changes as it moves up and down as well. Huge potential to get a traction rod setup wrong. It could also be a geometry issue. If the traction rod is creating some anti-squat geometry at that particular part of the suspensions travel, you'd get a reduction in available lateral grip. Or a sway bar fouling another component which increases it's spring rate, reducing grip. In those situations you get a much more gradual unloading of the tyre which I imagine could be consistent with what we see on the videos, rather than the big snap oversteer you seem to be expecting froma bind problem.

I'd love to see a pic of the suspension - I'm having a hard time imagining how that sway bar setup you described fits in there with a traction rod as well. It's much more likely to be either of those parts causing problems than shock absorbers.

Posted on: 2018/3/20 23:55
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Re: Mmmm The handling still needs work.
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no way less than 1mm play in wheel bearings is causing that.

bottoming out will certainly cause snap oversteer, a gradually increasing bind situation like you might get from a traction arm length conflicting with elongating spring length isn't the same thing though.

I've never seen a leaf sprung car behave like that. Somethings fundamentally wrong with the rear end, and it's not just 0.030" of bearing play.

Posted on: 2018/3/18 23:16
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Re: Mmmm The handling still needs work.
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Quote:

Rallytwit wrote:
The sway bar is a standard set up; attaches to chassis rails above the spring forward of the axle and the ends clamp on to the spring just ahead of where the axle mounts on the spring. The rear suspension is straight out of the competition suspension manual.


That doesn't sound like a standard swaybar setup to me. Normally on a live axle rear end, the swaybar attaches to the diff housing and then the ends go forward to link pins that attach to the chassis.
My recollection of the 1200 Competition Manual rear swaybar was it attached only to the leaf springs with 2 clamps on each spring ahead of the axle? But it has been several years since I looked at it.

Are you using the traction arm setup from the manual as well? That's quite possibly a cause of bind if the length is wrong.

Posted on: 2018/3/9 6:35
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Re: Mmmm The handling still needs work.
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I still say it looks like suspension bind - the way it won't take a set and just constantly unloads then grips again looks like a binding issue to me. I guess it could be the shocks, if they're doing not much initially then suddenly respond and overload the tyre?

Got any pics of your rear suspension setup? I vaguely remember something unusual about your rear swaybar setup but might be confusing that with someone else...

Posted on: 2018/3/7 22:51
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