Which engine would you use in a road racing series that have very loose rules?I can use my 1200 or save it and use my 210.I need some advice.
The CA20 has very little available for performance parts here in the US.We run one track but run it backwards at times.Could a A15 or A14 make enough hp to run with a
RX7,Saturn or a VW Rabbit?Help, season is coming soon.

Hi gt - depends how loose the rules are. I'm guessing if you can consider dropping a 2.0 litre in then the same goes for the other guys. Don't even think about the CA20 - I owned a Nissan
with one and it was a great, long life economical motor but my standard A12 would eat it all the time. A worked A14 will give you reliable, cheap racing but if you're running against
worked, injected rotaries and 2.0 litre Golfs and Saturns - and want to win - then you really should consider the CA18DE at least. In the end it doesn't matter - if you like racing then
you'll be battling mid-pack and having fun - the A14 will do that for you - with minimal expense. Let us know how you go and the results you get - we'll follow it with interest!

CA20 is good cos it's a straight swap and a big horsepower step over orignal 69hp (with lots more power easily attainable - much like any A12/14/15). I didn't suggest it's the ultimate in
power straight out of the box, but if I had sold my A15 + 5speed and put in a CA20 + 5 speed, rather than rebuild my A15 I'd be something like $1500 ahead now....

If I threw that money at it, I'd be talking 150+ rear wheel horsepower instead of the 90+ I'm hoping for my ute when it's run in... Pity about the insurance or I'd have done it in a flash. I
felt that about 8 years without insurance was enough.....

Can you use turbo? If so do it on your A12, and if you blow the A12, use an A15 (lower compression and more cubes). Can you use non datto motors (ie beat the rotaries at their own game?). 13B
Turbo fits nicely into small datto engine bays.... and they're very light.

If not, the current gun 4 cylinder is the SR20DE VVT. Even better if you can get an N1 version (280 hp!) How much money you got, these are expensive. If not CA 18's are almost as good.

A friend of mine is running a 120Y (B210) 4 DOOR USING A carbed L18, fully worked, running 185 rear wheel horsepower on a dynojet dyno.

If he doesn't keep snapping fairlady all alloy diffs (very expensive 300Zx diffs), he's competitive.

L18 is more reliable Than CA20, but why use an L18 if you can use an L20? CA20 injected can be built better (more HP) than an L20 (non turbo). CA20 were plagued by quality control more than
bad design - I haven't heard too many people bitchin' about CA18 engine quality.

Remember CA20E and CA20 were about 20HP apart for starters. CA 20E injecteds are heaps faster than CA20's. Note that there is a CA20 twin cam 4 valve head, although this may not be called CA
- I think it was used in Japanese maket bluebirds. The pistons have the cautaways and the heads are designed to accept a twin cam head.

Can you use Z24/22? KA24? Or 2 litres max? Americans would know more about these engines than us

E15 or E15T is better than A series but E15T's are weak in the head gasket (head bolt) area. Also I don't know of any RWD variants, so you'd have to work out a way to attatch the A series
gearbox and starter motor.

A rough summary in stock form - depends on version of engine. This doesn't tell you what you can squeeze out of them, just what they start with.

A12 - 69hp nett
A14 - 83hp nett
A15 - 69hp nett
E15T - 116hp gross (Turbo)
CA20 - 86hp gross
CA20E - 101hp gross
L18 - 105hp nett
L20 - 110hp nett
CA18DE- 126hp gross
CA18DET 170hp gross (turbo)
SR20DE 145hp gross
SR20DET 200-230hp gross (turbo)
Z22/KA22 125hp gross

Hey what about the FJ20 turbo the best of the lot !!!!!

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE