Years ago I added a hotter cam to my 1200 but was not impressed as the cam came with a card saying the valves would float at 6200 so I stayed below that and saw more loss than gain. Two days ago, having read here that the 1200 would spin to 8000 so I tried it. I was too busy to look at its tach but it was a different experience. At that speed, that engine was making less power so when I shifted into 2nd, it snapped forward surprisingly.
Pushed to that rpm, it seemed a different engine. Its 2000 rpm idle was now understandable.

Yes, typically a "hotter" cam than the stock cam will make less power below 6000 rpm and more power above 6000. Because the stock cam makes maximum power at 6000 rpm.

Hope you have valve springs rated to 8000 rpm, that would be safer.

thanks, it all makes sense now.

Do check to see what valve springs are in it if you do not already know, with a hotter cam there is going to be more over lap and a greater chance of bending a valve.
I will tell you that with the 286 degree .460 lift cam with 104 degree love separation, the car is not really happy below 4K and really wants to be above 4500. In fact there is such a noticeable lack of bottom end that putting it on my tilt trailer requires a good bit of clutch slipping or a run up it.
In general the harder you tune an A series the more it needs to rev, full race engines do nothing below 5k.
Tom

Two of you have quite properly brought up valve springs. They were supplied by Crane along with the camshaft.

However, I am already finding some unexpected negatives to running an engine that hard, it destroyed a new oil pressure sender.

I think I'd best stay at more modest power outputs as its clutch seems "whimpy" and will hold ok if I'm gentle with the engine but slips on shifting at high output.

Running an engine hard cannot destroy an oil pressure sender. Coincidence. However the engine won't last the normal 150,000 miles at high output.