The ballast resistor is not visible in this photo

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net ... 1802f67cd55fe25dda42581d3
(t seems privacy is enabled on this photo, so a direct link will not work)

Generally, a defective ballast will allow the engine to start, but not idle.


Have you replaced or tested the fuel filter? It should pump 450 ccs through it in 60 seconds at idle.

what does the ballast resistor even look like? i should have one..
is it like a small cylinder type thing?
it should be connected to the positive wire going out from the coil if im right but i cant seem to find it...

what does the ballast resistor even look like?

It's the 2 inch white rectangular thingo wired to the coil.

The small cylinder type thing is the condensor. I have had similar probs with my 1200 and replaced it with a new one($8).

This may not be the issue with yours but worth a try

Points & Condensor are a set, and the maintenance schedule says to replace them what? Ever two years or every 12 months?

i just checked my coil.
it has a internal resistor .. does this mean it could of broken from the inside?
i might end up changing my distributor anyways if i can order a cheap one from repco if they have the part in stock

i recently got these problems when i touched the body of the engine to the postive cable to the starter motor with a long piece of metal being stupid i didnt disconnect the battery....


what is this part and what does it do? it has for plugs at the bottom im thinking its some kind of fuse?

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Patydaty where are you located, I have most of the parts you require sitting around and I am happy to lend you what you need to find out whats wrong. I dont claim to know a great deal but if your not to far away i can drop round one night with some bits and pieces and see if we can nut it out. I'm in mitcham.

It is easier to simply replace all blown fuses than to figure out which is which. Be sure to replace them with ones ofthe same rating.

Ignition coils can get damaged. My coil was hit while pulling the engine and the car refused to run properly after that. I found the problem only by accident as the coil looked ok but was not.

You mentioned shorting out the battery lead immediately before the problem began. It made big impressive sparks and made you feel guilty but I'd not expect that to do much but burn up the nut and bolt you contacted. If the starter cranks the engine, the connection to the battery is good enough to run the engine. You should have indicator lights coming on when the ignition switch is on before the engine starts. The place you shorted has a smaller wire up to the ignition switch. If that wire is destroyed, everything comes to a stop. If it is damaged but still works a little, then running problems can happen. If the headlights still work well, it is probably ok as it feeds them also. Expect the lights to dim when the starter motor is cranking, that is normal.

Quote:

It is an aftermarket relay. It is not stock, so who knows what it is for?

the engine cranks strong, the battery is good
so now im thinking the wire you mentioned to ignition must be destroyed
but im not even sure where to locate it because the only wire near to what caused the spark was the starter wire.
but if i have no ignition light must be something to do with that wire

the car ran was able to idle for like alittle bit then slowly it got worse and i wasnt even able to start it, it just cranked over with good speed

i am in narre warren victoria

What makes you think it is an electrical problem? They are symptoms of a fuel problem.