Doesn't work for me D

And Series 1 and 2 gearboxes are rubbish, unless they are turbo ones. Series 4 boxes are the sh*t! Flat changes all day!

FYI series 1 and 2 boxes don;t have a "turbo" option.

and FYI once more, they aren't rubbish and were used behind all racing mazda (like early triple rotor PP 13Gs etc) vehicles for a whole 15 years without a hitch.

S4 is easier to get and has a turbo option with different ratios. that doesn't instantly make the S1 and S2 box obsolete.

The s1 and s2 boxes are fine but for lighweight cars for 1600 dattos and rx7 they are weak however Ive seen them in racing r100 and 12a PP engines with no problems.
However the best gearbox is the w58 supra.
Otherwise a eb or ef T5 or later version with a 80 dollar adapter plate from the states.

a T5? yukky poos

horrible ratios - definitely not a rotor box dude! designed for reducing fuel usage on a 4.0L sixpot, not getting the most out of a free revving rotor.

you'd be better off with a toyota box - and i'm no fan of them behind rotors either.

Trust me, even a mildly worked 12A turbo will chew through series 2 boxes. And noone can tell me different because I have seen it. And also trying to shift quickly is a nightmare.

Honestly, there's no need for supra boxes or anything, I have had no probs at all with series 4 turbo boxes. They have a nice smooth shift, and I have put heaps of power through them (430rwhp) and given them absolute hell, and have not broken a single one.

And sorry, yes I am incorrect about the series 1 and 2 turbo boxes. What I meant to say was 12A turbo boxes, which are series 3.

the ea t5 sucks but the T5 from the later falcons and mustangs have some of the best ratio setup available.

The s1 and s2 gearboxes are stronger than 60a datsun boxes. In a 12app rx7 1978 with 10 inch rears and 8 fronts full le mans bodykit the box held very well also. It all depends how you drive as most idiots today enjoy massive burnouts and abusing machinery instead of learning how to drive efficiently.

The supra box ratios are 3.285, 2, 1.4, 1, .78. Not too bad and handle torque from clevelands and other torque monsters.
The Mazda gearboxes turbo or not leave much to be desired in hi hp situations.

Quote:

Exactly....in a race car it only has to endure one launch per race, and its not usually as hard as a drag race or being a d*ickhead and doing burnouts and stuff, and then the rest is smooth (or its supposed to be anyway).

In a street PP, the drivetrain is constantly jerking due to the PP characteristics, and is the cause of a lot of breakages.

Now lets face it, I enjoy getting my cars out on the track and 'trying' to be fast and smooth, but going to car shows and doing massive burnouts, drag racing and generally abusing machinery is also fun. And I can vouch for the strength of the series 4 turbo box in these high hp and "machinery abusing" situations.

But at the end of the day, a series 1 or 2 box is going to be fine for a single rotor engine, and might be a better choice in this example as it is smaller and lighter (S4 turbo is one big heavy mutha of a box and would be a nightmare to fit in a 1000).

By the way D....I still can't get that link to work you sure its right?

12A turbo boxes were 95% auto and japan only.

finding one is harder than finding a manual soarer box. chances are the manual "12A turbo" box is an aussie spec 12A bellhousing with a last gen 13B RX5 5 speed bolted up.

would account for the "horrible shifting" as the 13B RX5 5spds ALWAYS jam in third under hard changes - ALWAYS. flat changes into second would end up with a nasty crunch as the synchros failed.

and cheers for the info there D. i'm not into falcons too much and like a lot of people i guess i have formed an opinion based on one model - sorry

and a "street PP" would be EFI which eliminates a lot of the jerking associated with big ports and cruising RPM. or you can use a 4spd behind it and drive with a 3speed + overdrive (ie keep it in 3rd).

No, it was Series 2 boxes that I have used, and am not a fan of their shifting or strength(unless by some freak coincidence, all the ones I've used have been stuffed).

As for the 12A turbo 5-speeds, the only one I've come across (or thought I'd come across anyway) was one that came attached to a mates import 12A turbo engine. It was pretty good on shifting, and lasted while the 12AT was in there, but broke pretty quick when he changed to 13BT. I always assumed that because it came on a 12AT engine it was a 12AT box. I wonder what type it actually was?? If it was an RX5 box, it never jammed, which is rare apparently.

And yeah, I've always wondered what an EFI PP would drive like, as I was contemplating one. They still sound just as lumpy, I know that much, but I thought they would still be a bit of a pig to drive. I've never talked to someone who's driven one, so I'd love to hear what you think.

i haven't come across any 5spds at all - genuine anyways. your mate must be one lucky SOB pity he busted it!

EFI PPs - they're A LOT more tractable at lower RPM and less prone (but still very prone) to popping flames on deceleration. they still buck like a kangaroo at sub 3000rpm a mild load (cruising) but like i said, knock it back a gear and it all smooths out and your fuel efficiency goes up!

use carbon kevlar apex seals - you can get them from racing beat - they're a lot nicer on the engine than steel or ceramic seals, last longer than straight carbons and a lot less prone to breaking at high rpm. a fair amount of $$$ but worth it IMO.

i will be building one at a much later date - i have ex-mazda factory PP housings in my old man's shed just waiting for renesis rotors (a new pair from mazda and modded to suit an older 13B is about $400 cheaper than S5 rotors alone!) and a 55IDA TB.

if you want even more reliability at higher RPMs you can build a thin bridge over the inlet and exhaust ports to stop the apex seals banana-ing out at high rpm when they move across the port which causes breakages.

and skip dowelling - just build a sump "gasket" out of 12mm plate and use 8mm hitensile bolts to hold it in place instead of the factory 6mm used to hold the sump on.

dowelling removes even more metal from the area it's trying to stop from cracking in the first place.

ah sh1t - now you've got me started again...