So I've started collecting a couple of bits for the S13 strut swap and I will take some nice big and comparative shots of any of the parts and work done. Now I say comparative because I plan on looking at some other parts to make it work, for instance r31 control arms. Rumor has it that they wont widen the track as much as the s13 arm and it's roughly 8-10cm longer than a sunny\stanza\120y\1200 arm. Downside might be the load and angle of the ball joint. Another option I was thinking about and would like to track down would be 180B control arms as they have the larger taper in the ball joint which the S13 steering knuckle hub thing needs.

Don't expect much progress just yet until I get the s13 gear, I've only got the r31 gear so far.

I have S13 knuckles ,sr20 rotors and brakes and cheap broken coilovers to add to the inventory. I'll start mocking it up on my coupe and take some pics. The weight of all this gear is actually surprising and not for the better either.

Update: Here are some Comparison pics and some mock up pics on my coupe. Coupe has no Engine but with the Spring rate on these puppies the wouldn't flinch anyway.

Ok first up is three struts, 120Y sedan in original specs,Stanza A10\Sunny B310 with Kingsprings KDFL-17 supposedly lower Stanza springs on it, and R31 control arm with S13 knuckle and cusco comp-s coilover.


Specs are:
120y - 660mm from mouning face on top hat to steering arm, 300mm from LCA bush hole to center of ball joint
A10 - 660mm, 320mm
R31\S13 - 570mm, 320mm

Next up is the Castor Bars. I remember someone asking Frank about how long the R31 unit was compared to the Stanza so here's the three



Lentghs:

120y - 380mm to start of thread, 460mm total
A10 - 390mm, 465mm
R31 - 350mm, 430mm

Here's a couple of Test fit pics





As you can see there's a huge problem with this unit causing the control arm to level out, the tie rod doesn't fare much better either. The safest way I can think to solve this is by using another coilover (seems better than chopping up this one to reweld the brackets cos then you still have it's lack of bump clearance if you wind down the spring. The other way to slightly fix this and relocate the swaybar link off the castor bar would be to mount the arm further out and mabey up a fraction. I'm not a facebook fan of that unless the angles are corrected otherwise it's a waste of time. Speaking about the castor bar though, what do you think about knocking one of those studs out and getting a super chunky swaybar link\super bolt?

And finally here's the ride height with my 185\60 R13 Toyo Proxies which coincedently I found this wheel has a slight buckle >_<

There's also a huge problem with my ability to format a post, sheeeesh!

edit: just remembered the 120Y struts aren't in original condition, I smashed the living S*&^ out of the original oil shocks after finally getting the flange nut off :(

Edit edit: Fixed the editing :P

I as asking around a couple of places today trying to find a solution to the LCA inner bush problem. They didn't want to look for a bush that has the same size inner diameter as the standard Datsun bolts but they were helpful in suggesting that I call a steel shop and get a couple of pieces of high tensile cut to spec. Coincidentally each one would roughly be:

OD - 19mm
ID - 8mm (smidgen for bolt)
length - 63mm
Material - High tensile recomended (the higher the number the more you'll annoy them :P)

hey bro i have nothing constructive to say really. but id love to see a pic of the coupe..

Hey littledarkone, i have some new s13 ISC Coilovers if your interested and 280mm slotted discs. With the outer tie rods have you tryed using s13 parts, you will have to machine the inner rods to suit tho. The castor rods might work if you use the s13 arms or maybe adjustable maddat sway bar.

The castor rods should work, they should pull a fair bit of positive castor into it so no need to turn down the rods and add extra thread like some people have done on thier stanza stuff (I'm still going to get my stanza stuff machined down later).

I've got this bizarre obsession with making things fully reversable so for the tie rods I was going to
1. check the setting geomtry with the arms properly tightened up
2. get a threaded rod made up to suit whatever tie rod suits the angles instead of modding the ones I have. Spares are getting hard to find.

Also, I messed up one of the control arms pressing the balljoint out this arvo >_< I didn't see the circlip and subsequently made the opening nice and sloppy.

Greendog, have you had a look through my many pages of pics? the car hasn't really changed much except the diff is sitting outside waiting for the ute diff to get taken out and fitted up.

edit: I see, there's like two\three pics of it

I was trying to track down the CA S13 brake setup cos anyone with sense would just about be throwing them away and I can keep using the Hustlers pictured in the mockup photos, it's not like I'm hitting <insertbetterracingtrackthantownsville>




Let's see how long that hotlink from my facebook lasts.....

it just occurred to me that I have my 1200 ute roller in the yard, that will be getting some mock up time as well but I'll need to grab a front guard for measurement purposes