I just love these little cars and fully appreciate them for what they are. My first KB10 was the race car in my avatar which I jointly owned with my brother. This KB10 was my second. I was slowly building this car with the view of making it a second race car (so we can race each other). Unfortunately, middle-age responsibilities have sucked all my time and money. I have barely touched either of them in the last four years and have finally admitted to myself that I’m not going to be racing anytime soon. So my collection is for sale.
Only moment ago, we have just agreed on a deal to sell the race car to a very cool father and son team from Sydney who we know will give it a great home. The race car deal included the alloy half-cage from this car, so it will not come with the car. I can offer a duplicate in steel for $450. Now that is done, I have this to offer for sale.
1970 Datsun 1000 Coupe Deluxe KB10. I’ve owned this car since 2005 and I have always garaged it. Considering its age (45 years) it’s been very well looked after for its whole life.
Body:
The body is an older restoration, originally cream, now painted more of a beige colour. The paint is not perfect by any means. I was intending to repaint it but it is one of the jobs I have not finished. I did paint the engine bay while it was empty. Clear over base system. The colour is a VE commodore colour named ‘Sandstorm Effect’. As the name suggests, it’s a metallic ‘sand’ colour and I think it suits the age of the car.
Interior:
- Perfect dash. No cracks anywhere. This car has been looked after!
- Two near-new black SAAS bucket seats. They are very comfortable and mounted on original slides. Very few modern seats fit a 1000. It took me ages to get a good setup.
- Two new black Sparco four point harnesses as well brand new lap-sash belts. Both sets are mounted permanently. Only the lap-sash is legal for road use due to dumb NSW road rules.
- Rear seats removed owing to cage, harnesses, and because the seats don’t fold forward.
- Black carpets in the front.
- Black Momo sports steering wheel.
- Battery relocated to a metal box behind the passenger seat.
- New h/d electrical cables plus two kill switches as per Cams regulations.
Front Suspension:
- Completely rebuilt using new upper and lower ball joints, many new high tensile bolts and new polyurethane bushes (I had to make some of these).
- All suspension parts and steering parts were painted black.
- New wheel bearings and seals on 1200 disk-type hubs.
- The front spring was stiffened with a thicker main leaf. Currently set at standard height, but can easily be lowered by cutting the rubber blocks and/or resetting the spring.
- Monroe heavy duty shocks. I planned to replace them with adjustable GAZ units eventually.
Rear axle/suspension:
- Datsun 1200 Ute H165 axle. Standard track. Spring perches relocated to suit the 1000’s narrower spring spacing. Rebuilt with new bearings and seals. Painted black.
- Springs were stiffened up with an extra leaf from a sunny wagon. I experimented a lot with different leafs from three different donor vehicles to come up with this arrangement. It matches the front pretty well in terms of height and stiffness. The car handles very well.
- Low millage Standard rear shocks in very good nick. I planned to replace them with adjustable GAZ units eventually.
Steering:
- Late model Datsun 1200 collapsible steering column
- Professionally rebuilt steering box.
- Dead straight track rod.
- 1200 tie rods (stronger than 1000 units and have a different thread)
- Four brand new 1200 tie rod ball joints
- New nalothane bushes in a 1200 idler arm
Brakes:
- 4 wheel disks with a new dual system master cylinder.
- Front uses a pair of kitted VK commodore Girlock callipers, new RTA approved braided flexible brake lines, and new slotted 258x20mm vented rotors. A custom steel plate mounts the calliper.
- Rear uses R31 skyline Girlock callipers (also kitted), three new RTA approved braided brake lines, new slotted 258x8mm solid rotors, and new custom handbrake cables.
- The brakes are incredible. The race car is spectacular and out-brakes a lot of good dedicated race cars. These brakes are even better. The above combo was chosen for a few reasons but brake balance was the main one. The commodore calipers are functionally similar to the Skyline R31 fronts but without the external fins which limit rim selection. This combination balances well and locks the fronts when pushed, which is how you want it for a race car or a road car. There is almost no nose-dive either, it sits very flat at all times.
Engine & gearbox:
- This is the tricky bit. The race-prepped A15 and T50 box will be removed as it has been sold separately. I have two running but tired A15’s as well as the original A10 if you find that more interesting. I’m also happy to sell it without an engine if that’s your wish.
- Custom engine mounts to suit A14/A15. I used new ford laser upper engine mounts, which are significantly larger/stiffer than the originals. This eliminates axle tramp.
- New electric fuel pump.
- Original 4-speed. Shifts really well, feels great.
Wheels:
- Set of four Bathurst globes
Registration
- I have an engineer’s certificate covering the A15 engine, brakes, diff, cage, seats, (see photo).
- Rego just ran out in January. I’m willing to talk about blue slips, etc to make the deal.
Cheap to run, rego and insure. I insure through Shannons for $26/month and its insured for $8000+ agreed value + ‘keep the wreck’ in a write-off.
Price:
Complete car as shown but without the half-cage or engine $ 5000
Half-cage in steel $ 450
A15 engine $ 490
Willing to talk, but I’m not giving it away