Done the flare trick to the guard's of my b 10 ute -1000 ute. did not add plastic or fibre glass.
Just two hour's on each guard punding and bending ever so slowly not to split or stretch to far ,the guard's turned out fantasticlly well for my first panel beating job on this ute.
Just a dolly and a hammer. look's mean too.
Now the room above the wheel is greater than before.
What's the best way to adjust front suspenion height in the (my) back yard..
Adding a fat chick do,s not count..
Any body got full understanding or education in this area.. please info greatly receiced.
Tyre change is not happening as the rubber on the back is $250 each at 245's by 70's by 13 and the front are $290 each 225's by 50's by 13's and are all newby's.
Do rub a litlte on full lock..that another story another day..

geez thats big rubber on a 1000! i have new 165/55 and i barly loose traction!

As for lowering it.

Front
-Self lowering, the bushes under the front leaf will wear out and squash down over the years
-Cut the rubbers insted of waiting 40yrs for them to wear down!
-Get the front leaf reset lower

Rear
-Lowering blocks, i used 1200 blocks. They need a little modification. I can show you how to do that when the time comes.
-Rear springs reset


Reseting springs can be a costly exersize!

post some pics up man! I wanna see this beasty!

[img align=left]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/KB10/CopyofSuspension1.jpg?t=1165041267[/img]

I don't know what's going on here, but since upgrading to Internet Explorer 7, all I get is this text & no pictures.

just get rid of everything after .jpg(the guess payed off)

Can't link dynamic images

Love the +ve camber from factory

I've just replaced all rubber components in my front susp.steering on the wagon to get over rego
Inc the idler buses and caster rod bushes
All still avail from Nissan
However.... the under spring seat rubbers that adjust ride height are listed NLA ex Japan once existing stock is gone
So if you need em or want em for spares do it now.

Thanks Pigdog, you're a champ.

This should give a good idea of how it all works & it's a marvel of simplicity. The rubber block between the end of the spring & the wishbone is the secret, but remember that the minimum permitted ride height in B10's is regulated by the headlights.

The law, at least in NSW, says that the minimum headlight height is 600mm [23.6"] & for street use, I can vouch that this is a good & practical setting as it has enough suspension travel for acceptable comfort, but is low enough to look the part.

Remember that if you take. say 1/2" from the rubber, the car will be lowered by about 3/4" & the freshly cut surface will wear quickly at first, lowering it even more, so move carefully & do it twice if necessary rather that to overdo it & not be able to undo it.

I seen that beast on the highway on a trailor at the weekend that yellow weapon of your's dattoman_1000.
Just before the light's on benara road...
the front flare clip orginal by you or a mate or is it standard with catalog number .. look's it looked sexy to say the least.

That's mint pigdog..
Now I will finish attacking the old rubbish (worn out no fault of it's own).
I've spent many hour's at coventry's with the complete nolathane bush range and a good vernia gauge . I've rebuilt most of the front and rear bush's.
My front spring's haved been reset 25 mil lower than standard ride height.
Back spring,s fifty mill higher because of the 130 litre fuel tank on the tray....
front already hit's high kerb's and
low fly buck's .. SPEED Bump,s look like mount everest when you are dragging your bum., over them feel that high too..
Only chassing 20 mil max more...
WITH FULL FUELTANK AND DRIVER.


She almost ready for major show and tell, not much longer beatie!!!!
rebuilding a 1000 (b10) is fun to say the least EVEN more fun if you got two of them.

i think i got most of the rear bushes in Nolathane,
and mabee the radius rubbers too,
I think I kept the numbers, I'll have a look when I get home,

but that doesn't help your lowering,
Most of them have sagged nice and low anyway..lol

..Removed 23 mil sit's fine now has maybe 10 mil clearance over the wheel heap's of room.
Even made nice little bed for the spring to reseat it self into .. it seated better than I thought it would ..
Spring had to be reshaped as well lost 4 mill each end . Not to hit the castle nut side of the lower ball joint..
Completed both side's wide up jack 25 mil drill bit. To push the spring off the rubber mount.. and a solid long screw driveror lever to open the gapp that little bit more to release the rubber block .
peace of piss remove the wheel's only hard bit of the total job..
25 minute's each side iin and out..
Smoke and burnt rubber every where Minster of war spewing at Me again. lol . Reshaped them with a grinda..
I did get new set first and doctored the old set incase of the o f### no headache. Just don't know murphy's law thing you all know what I mean..