Cheers Dodgeman

The cheesecloth filter is a good idea, but how much does this restrict flow to the radiator. The chessecloth that I know of is fairly fine, and would block up fairly quickly. It obviously works since you have done this. Is the filter a permanent thing, or just during run in?

Also the radiator is only about 12 months since I had it completly redone, new core etc. Its a modified one with a top tank put on the bottom, so it can fit 3 rows in it.
It hasnt let me down, except on the hottest of days.

I will send it away to my raditaor mob, who have done some awsome work for me in the past (custom job for a v8 conversion) and get them to look at it again and check its all cochre.

cheers yet again.

Benny has an A14 in his wagon, with the 5 speed, and I've slotted the A14 and 5 speeder into mine recently, so theres plenty about to look at..
Like Chris said, we're all happy for you to come and have a look.. theres a few different ideas on all of them, you can choose the bits you like,.. :)

I use a 1000 rad with a 3 core, and touch wood, they have always been great..

I bought the cheesecloth radiator filter from a radiator shop & it came with printed instructions & servicing recomendations.

When fitting a replacement engine I have found that if the engine has been in storage for a little while, the crud in the block dries out & shrinks, causing it to crack into smaller chunks. When the engine is installed & used, the expansion & contraction caused by heating & cooling cycles tend to allow bits to break off & the next time you give it a good rev out when hot, another chunk, big or small, is carried up into the radiator.

My personal suggestion.
Remove all welch plugs from the engine block before you install it & clean out as much crud as possible with a long thin screwdriver, & wash out with hose. Remove block drain plug too if fitted & make sure the hole is clean as this will be usefull later on.
Replace welch plugs with brass ones, particularly the one behind the flywheel
Fill the cooling system with water only at first. Install filter & drive. Just keep an eye on the colour of the water. The rustier the colour, the sooner it should be checked, but leave it untill the next service if you like.

If there is a lot of crud in the filter, then refill with water & check again fairly soon. When there is very little or none, then drain & fill with COOLANT & recheck whenever you like. Make sure that you drain the block if you have a block drain plug whenever servicing the filter during the 'water only' phase. My radiator also has a drain plug, so I drain it too. Now that I have coolant in mine, I drain from the radiator fitting just enough to empty the top tank when checking, & pour it back in when i'm done.

When the filter catches very little or none, you can leave it out all together if you want, but mine is still in there.

The filter that I bought is a moderately coarse weave & anything that passes through it will also be small enough to pass through the tubes. It is also long, so a fair bit of it is actually inside the top tank. As an experiment, I completly blocked off the airflow through the radiator with some cardboard. Screwing the idle up to about 1200 rpm allowed the fan to suck it on & it stayed there.
I waited for it to get hot enough for the thermostat to open fully & watched the rate of flow in the top tank.
The filters restriction was so low as to be imperceptible & the coolant rushed by under the filler neck at great speed. Naturally if you suddenly notice an increase in temp, then a check of the filter is in order, but just remember, every piece of crud in the filter is another piece that didn't make it into the radiator to do its nasty work.

My 1200 has a new, but stock core & I drove it all through the heat of summer & the temp stayed right where it was supposed to be. The only thing that got hot was me.

Cheers for the info. Again its great to hear logical advice from experience. The cheese cloth is going to be the go. I wil get the radiator serviced, and ask about this cheese cloth thing. Like you said, anything caught in the filter is one less bit of crud in the radiator.

I think that I will have to come and visit some of you guys, perhaps next weekend? I am in Perth from next Thursday morning till the following Wednesday Morning. So anytime in the middle works for me.

Thanks again folks

hmm now that I have the easy stuff sorted out.

I was talking to my brother, (the only qualifed mechanic in the family) and he suggested that since i am injecting the motor, then its only a smallish step to forced induction.
By that, he means forced induction carbys can be problematic compared to EFI and that EFI is soo much more relaible and easiser to tune according to him.

So now he has got me thinking. I have head heaps about turboing of cars, lots of standard stuff as well as aftermarket, but a supercharger is also an option. Infact, i like the idea of a supercharger more than a turbo, but just dont know enough about the two.

I have done some research on the net, asked around, and have an understanding of how they work mechanically, but the big question is

Which is going to be more suitable. Turbos seem to be on small engines, whilist superchargers are on the big capacity stuff.

I think I said before that the car is only going to be a weekend car. I want some pretty good performance from this little donk, just not sure where to go.

The current engine (worked a12) sounds awsome. The cam is soo lumpy that it wont idle at all below 1000rpm, and itsnt smooth till about 2000 i think. I love the lumpy idle that motor has. It just sounds soo meaty.

Do you get the same sort of idle from a forced induction motor? really am lost on this stuff.

Who ever has had experience with either or both, post your opinions/experience.

Cheers yet again

with superchareger i spose you could have both id go super charger with a massive cam

The lumpy idle of a hot cam is telling you that there is a lot of overlap between inlet opening & exhaust closing. This gives the blower ample time to blow all your fuel straight out the exhaust before it gets a chance to be wasted in a needless process, like burning & making power.

Cams for forced induction engines are generally much more tame than NA ones. If there is too much overlap, much of your boost pressure is lost out the exhaust, so if we close the exhaust valve a bit earlier, it traps the fuel & air in the cylinder where it belongs, but this of course kills the rump rump.

You can make it run on the hot cam, but because some of your fuel is used to do nothing more than cool the exhaust valve on its way down the pipe, economy suffers.

righto then

That makes sense about the valve overlap and wasting fuel, but doesent the valve overlap lessen as the motor revs more?
hence the smoother running?

So at idle, sure there would be fuel wastage, but whent he motor revs harder, wouldnt the more aggresive cam be of benifit?

The economy isnot a big deal since its not the daily driver, but sure I dont want to be wasting volums of fuel for nothing more than a sound.

Also, done some more reading. A centrifugual type charger is really only a turbo that is belt driven. So this would be the easiest option, and probally the cheapest since they are more common (corrolla, commodore both used them i think)

can you not get a super cahrger that is on/off im sure i hurd a toyota had a supercharger like this would that not work? that way your not pushing anything out the exhaust at idle?

or ecan get and idler pully off an air con and put it between the supercharger i think that would work in a way or not?