Quote:

No I still have her, but she doesnt look so original anymore, just need a bit of time to get her finished.

love the black gx type bonnet look

funny we must have the Gene, I did that to the bonnet on my coupe too, it had 2 narrow white stripes on each edge though...
and some flush vents over the carb....

I think it's at home somewhere..

My Orange coupe has stripes
But they are offset to one side like LC GTR ones

A Little update -

The engine and gearbox have now been mounted.

The old gearbox mounts were removed from inside the trans tunnel to make way for the Toyota box - a new crossmember/gbox mount was fabricated and bolted up.

A problem encountered with the engine was availability of engine mounts - as the 1000's and 1200's have different crossmembers and different mounts finding replacement ones was difficult the 1000 mounts have an angled section on them- in the end I used std 1200 ute ones and modified steel bracket that goes from the engine to the rubber mount so now it accepts the square rubber mounts.

The Webbers are now bolted up looking shmick in the engine bay - she's tantalizingly close to running and I can't wait to get her out on the road!

looks good mate!

nice work there.

Looking good ben,it appears to be getting a bit serious in all departments.I assume you are using an A14 or 15.May i offer some advice we have learned from the race car? Depending on the ride height at the rear,be a bit carefull with using the H165 diff or bigger,you see to get power to the ground in these things you need to run VERY soft back springs,virtually stock as there is bugger all weight back there to transfer,which leads to the next problem,the big diffs hit the floor as does the tailshaft (13x7 wheels 60 series Toyo's) and when cornering at 10.5 tenths the rear axle housing has been known to hit the side rails(bump stops removed-no room)which can be a bit embarrasing if your not ready to catch it as you just ran out of suspension travel,so take some accurate measurments before you shell out any cash lowering the springs or buying diffs.Personally i would try a steel H145 first and see how it goes.Your right on the money with the gearbox,anything from the A series family is not worth stuffing around with,i have a shed full of busted ones.No advice on Watts linckage or Panhard rods as we don't feel the car needs one once you have replaced all the rubbers with nolathane or the like and get some half decent shocks on,rear sway bar,tried and removed,front sway bar in current service is Sunny wagon,seems about right,its attatched via a clamp arrangement on the tie bar next to the shock mount with rose joint link up to the sway bar,which has the tapered ends loped off,and it's the right shape believe it or not,it bolts to the side rails directly behind the bumper irons.I hope this has been of some use to you as we had to learn thru trial and error.Cheers

looks awesome, motivation to finish mine.

Hi Bert - It's great to get advice from guys out there running the 1000's to the limit it certainly helps not having to do the trial and error yourself (its a bugger of a way to learn!) Yeh it's an A14 but comes out at about 1500cc

Thanks for the heads up on the diff and rear suspension setup especially about the spring rates and clearance on the side rails. what is the exact tyre your running? just so i can compare overall diameters - as soon I will be ordering tyres. I have 14x6 and was thinking of running a 195/60/14 which gives me a 590mm OD.

I have a steel case in my sedan and might consider using it in the meantime as a stopgap until i sort something else out - see i already have a h165 lsd centre that i am keen to put into use. will certainly get the tape out before I venture any further tho.

Am very interested in the setup of your front swaybar - any chance of seeing some pics?? I've only seen two other 1000's running the front bar.
Whats the reason behind not running a rear swaybar?

Cheers

Hi Ben,sorry i have'nt been paying much attention lately,been trying to get 3 Datto's ready for Pittsworth Sprints this weekend.We use 13x7 hotwires with 205/60/13 Proxes RA1's on the race car,they have an inflated diamater of 574mm.I'm charging camera batteries at the moment to take away,i will crawl under one of them,probably the KB10 and take a snap of the sway bar set up,it's virtually the same as the B10.It has 'S' plate or club reg. and has to be jacked up to have it's race wheels fitted once Vixen get's it there on the road(10x6 AO32 Yokahamas,i used these wheels when i raced these things when i was in my 20's)As for the rear bar ,we tried a couple and found the car too tailey not that a locked diff helps but the car would not put power down thru apex and exit regardless of rear spring rates,you would end up in a constant power slide,which looks spectacular but does nothing for good stopwatch numbers,the bloody things are just too light in the rear,which reminds me,make sure you plumb in a brake balance adjuster,even if you have disc's on the rear.If it's road rego'd you'll have to hide it in the cabin as they are illegal for road use.We use between 50 and 75% only on the rear depending where we are.Hope this helps and will try to put pics up next week Cheers Bert