I am in process of this verry swap, but I am using the 1600 cross member, it bolts right up and seems to clear everything. I ahve been told the H145 will stand up to my 9.8:1 L-20 if I don't roast the tyres off much (spyder gears burn up when you spin one). I am however keeping my eyes open for a 1600 wagon axle H165 for when (not if) I fry the 145.

B210s have the H150 -- which is considerably stronger than the H145. B110s have the H145.

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I used 610 sway bar with 610 mounts bolted on 210 caster box. There's not much clearance between castor box hole and swaybar but it fits there just fine. It will bolt in straight part of sway bar when you install mounts in right bolt holes, don't use those where B210 swaybar bolts up but instead those which support caster box. (It's few years when I made my conversion, migh be that you have to drill some holes to that caster box because it blocks those 180B sway bar mounting holes?)

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Take 1600's leaf springs too, 120Y's own are weak. I have litle bit modified L18(~175hp ~8500rpm...) and I didnt even try with H150, with H165B those damn leaf springs broke when first found traction in first gear. Also with L18 and short-linked Dellortos it's hard to not spin tyres with open diff(with standard cam, with that high rev cam L18 feels like A10 below 4000rpm...)

Oh, my 120Y has about 2 degree negative camber at front with stock 180B lower arms, caster has advanced just so much as there's room in front towers with 180B struts and rear axle sits about half inch backward from original position with 710 leaf springs. It makes some difference in handling with quite cheap and simple parts, stock 120Y understeers like a cow but mine is quite neutral even with that much heavier engine.

just got my x member back from the powdercoater looks like new I'll post a pic as soon as i figure out how. stupid computer

I used 610 sway bar with 610 mounts bolted on 210 caster box. There's not much clearance between castor box hole and swaybar but it fits there just fine. It will bolt in straight part of sway bar when you install mounts in right bolt holes, don't use those where B210 swaybar bolts up but instead those which support caster box. (It's few years when I made my conversion, migh be that you have to drill some holes to that caster box because it blocks those 180B sway bar mounting holes?)

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Unbolted the b210 castor rods but there is no way the 610 sway bar brakets bolt up to rail. :(

Besides getting custom bar, any other ideas?

Woo Hooo Thread from the dead!!!

So I am gonna do this conversion. Gotta keep the 120Y alive ;)

I have '76 120Y

200b/240k struts (Unsure which but they have 3.5inch cliper spacing)

LCAs balljoints and steering arms that attached the above struts into a 180B

( I dont know what they were from originally but they were in an old 180B I wrecked a while ago)

L20B (unsure of sump position as yet but could require a sump change to rear sump)

200B SSS Dogleg 5 speed

Now from reading the above I will need:

180B x-member

Sway Bar - does anyone have any reccomendations? Maddat SR into 120Y? 180B, 200B, R31 Pintara/Skyline (same as 200B but thicker)

Tailshaft?????? NFI, maybe the shorter auto 120Y will fit with longer box or just shorten a stock one.

Does this look right to people.

Cheers, Jon

apparently 180b crossmembers dont really sit the engine in the best position though, so a better way to do the conversion would be to modify the stock crossmember

but if you are using 180b crossmember, control arms, balljoints, castor rods ect then the 180b swaybay would be the way to go

you will have to shorten a tailshaft to suit, depending on what diff you have there more be a couple of different options,
-if you run a H145...upgrade it to something bigger
-h150 or h165 you could use an auto 120y h150 tailshaft shortened to suit, but they have tiny non replacable unis so would be better to use a bluebird or stanza h165 tailshaft and shorten it to suit
-120y BW, would use a 120y auto bw tailshaft shortened, or get a one piece toyota corona tailshaft from a car that had a BW and put a 200b front yoke on it, they use the same uni so will go straight on

oh also 200b and 240k struts are the same, there are small and large offset ones but they are most likely small offset. would have a 253mm disc if so, otherwise they have a 270ishmm one

Yeah I'm working off the assumption that the steering arms LCAs and balljoints that were on the 200b struts in the 180B will fit with the Y front end.

Really just need some 180B castor rods, swaybar and I'm almost there.

I'm gonna use the 180B x-member and with any luck the extra camber from the 180B steering gear will balance out any understeer probs

Tailshaft wise I'm runnin the BW 120Y diff so it'll be a shortened 120Y auto BW unit

The disc measurements you gave is that total disc diameter? How do you measure the diam of brake disc is what I;m askin really.

Cheers, jOn

yeah disc diameter, ruler usually does the job

i use a set of rim width measuring jaw things, then just measure how big the gap is
any kinda V shaped object would do the job realy