So the shifter is just flopping around, can't shift too well. It also has a "Razo" shift knob which doesn't fit and falls off all the time.

Solution: genuine Datsun B310 shift knob with correct 4-speed pattern diagram:



Shifter Rehab

As expected, the shifter pivot bushings had disintegrated. I fitted used ones in there. Now the shifter feels like it should.

I used this cleaner named "Goof-Off" to clean up the 28-year old shift knob. Now it looks almost new again. Goof-Off cleans all kinds of gunk.

Got it fixed. She was running lean. The 'cough' (backfire through the carburetor) now only happens with engine cold, no choke -- it's exactly the same symptoms. But now with the chamber vented, no problems after she's warmed up.

The problem was the air filters. I neglected to notice the Mikunis have the air jet/float chamber vents in a different place than the webers (the air filters are for webers).

A couple of holes drilled in the right places and she's running like new!



air vents

Added a Datsun 620 pickup tachometer. It matches the newer 1200 dash.




The newer wiring harness didn't seem to have the tacho/coil loop wire, so I ran a single wire in from the coil -- the 620 taco looks like the PB110 gauge. It uses a single neg trigger wire (unlike B110 tachometer). All the other wires ran to the back of the gauge cluster (lights, IGN and ground).



Tachometer Wiring

One annoying thing that caused confusion: the 1200 dash wiring connector (big round connector) doesn't have a ground wire! So unless you actually bolt in the dash cluster, the lights and things don't work right (turn signal lights get stuck on, etc). So I added an extra wire from the cluster to the dash frame. Then it works for testing even if not securely bolted in.

So I discovered:
* the alternator main wire was not bolted on, just sitting there somehow it still worked
* Heater hose wasn't fastened (clamp was 100% loose), it was dripping water onto the driver's floor
* the tailgate is FRP, actually looks like ABS but in any case it is plastic
* those late-sunny truck disc brakes sure are small, the look to be smaller than B110 coupe rotors. But surely they must be just as big?

All in all, as good as I expected. No regrets.

Well I should have taken your advise ... I tested some of the small stickers and they came off so easy on a hot day.

But when only the biggest remained, they are of a different type, and I pulled some of the paint off:




Now there's a missing spot of paint about the size of a ping-pong ball on each door. I don't know what to do about it. And now I'll have to get an expert to remove the last one (on the bonnet).

More pics:

Left and right hand Pair



It is small, isn't it?

Dave, You'll probably find it was running rich, causing excessive fuel consumption. I've driven 1200's with twin webers on road trips & they get amazing economy, because they usually have enough power to cruise in the idle circuit, not the main circuit.
The 'cough/sneeze' you have sounds like the progression from the idle circuit to the main circuit isn't quite right. A bit of playing around with emulsion tubes & such should tune this out. A friend who knows heaps more about this than myself played around with exactly this part of my webers on an A15 & it actually made the car faster. I have a B310 coupe with an L18 & 45mm DCOE's doing the same thing & he's promised he'll have a look at it.

Thanks for the ideas on the carbs. It's getting very poor fuel economy so I'll try tuning it. 90% of the cough/sneeze is fixed (the air filters I modified were blocking the fuel bowl and air jets). Now it only coughs just a bit at light throttle, (can barely hear it) I guess it's another indication that the tuning isn't as optimum as i first thought. It's got a lot of power though! It picks up power at 2500 rpm and engine smooths out at 3000 rpm. I haven't revved it over 5000 yet...

i love the long bed, when you get the door paint fitted, get the rim centers painted darker too if $$4 permit.

reminds me a bit of my old ute in the sun.

A couple more pics:

Side View



Interior, Momo steering wheel


The wheel is not just for looks, it is flattened on the bottom to allow more room to manouever into the driver's seat.