now i know injection is probably the way to go but if i can't get a hold of that then in what order of carb would you suggest, i want good response from go to go more.

i plan on a bit of internal work so if its a little big for it's boots to start with then thats cool. i want some more go than the stock hitachi on my A14.

i'm on a budget of sorts, so the most bang for my buck

personally i would do this:

lumpy cam
shave the head 100 thou or so
port the head :)
extractors
and a nice set of 40mm webbers on the side

it totally depends on what the car is used for and how much work is to be done on the motor.
Rember this is my personal opinion.
If the cars just for road and its only getting a head port and a mild cam then go for the webber 32/36 down draft of the capri. cheep easy to find and lots of parts, and not to heavy on gas.
If you love the twin sidedraft noise and can afford the $400 - $600 setup cost and the fuel cost, or the motors for track and/or more serious and needs the extra fuel then I believe the webbers and dellortos are much the same but ive heard the SUs arent that good. I dont know anything about the holleys that would suit your car.
In the end twin 40s look the business, sound lovely and will give you the option of large hp but the 32/36 will be sufficient and save you $$.
Ask Dodgeman, he seems to know a bit about carbs.
Cheers
Quinn

cheers quinn,

well dodgeman, if i'm going for street / race then what should i look for in a carb. i want some cam work a GX head with a port and polish some extractors to go with the exhaust i've got.

i'm up for options

My road 1200 has a set of genie extractors a mild cam and a 32/36 down draft webber and the head is ported and polished and the thing just keeps going and going.The best thing i ever did was to throw away those stupid hitachi carby that they come out with standard. the tuned exractors(Genie or pacemaker) are far better than the jobs that the exhaust places make up,they cost more but they are worth it! when i bought my 1200 18 months ago all this cost me about $700 and all i did was canvas wreaking yards, trading post and the local papers. i think my extractors and carby were off an early model corolla all i bought was an adapter plate to fit on the stndard carby. cam and the bottomend from the paper.all you have to do is look and you shall find, even if you are on a budget.mine goes pretty hard for only minor mods.

dont rule out the option of a single 45dcoe webber these can make alot of power when tuned right wtihout the hassle of twins.

Personal opinion.
I've used both Webbers and Dellortos.Webbers are more nervous and you think you have mach hp but Dellortos are more stayable and you don't have to adjust them so often.
I prefered Dellortos at the end.!!!

so would it be quite feesable to use motorbike injectors and if so what else will i need if i get the whole shebang ie: fuel rail injectors throttlebody and a fuel only computer. and if i get a manifold made up shell be apples id say.

if i have missed anything just let me know.

( i probably got it completly wrong but hey thats why we are here)

im pretty sure injection needs a different pump system and youll probably need to replace the lines while your at it. If you go for an odd set up like motorbike injectors youll never find someone who'll know if there set up right, it will be a real hit-and-miss mission where as anyone can tune webbers and dellortos. also it sounds expencive.

To Team_Dat
Street / race, almost a contradiction in terms, but i will proffer my solicited opinion.

I will assume that you will be seeing a lot more street duty than race, & for this reason i tend to be a bit more conservative than some others. An engine like this is in my view, best "developed" rather than building an all out banzai screamer first up.

If i read it right, you are using an A14, & this is a good choice, so i would be looking for an A14 / A15 oval port head with the smallest combustion chamber. These are basicly GX heads with bigger valves & bigger combustion chambers. They are easier to find & lower in price. My experience has been with A12's so hopefully someone here can identify which head had the best combination of port size & combustion chamber volume. With any luck, you may already have the best core head on your engine. I will be rebuilding my GX head with A14 valves & hard seats so i can run on LFG. [lead free gasoline]
You could safely mill some metal from it, but i don't know if i would go to 100 thou. 60 thou strikes me as leaving a stronger deck, keeping in mind that these heads are made of alloy & not iron.

I like the suggestion offered by "sunny" of the single DCOE Webber, but for gods sake, if you use it, or a single DelOrto, factor in the cost of a propper dyno tune. That's the true beauty of these carbs. They are so incredibly tuneable, but they need to be tuned by a pro on a dyno to get them right. Once done, you should not need to touch it again, & you will LOVE it.

Cam. The best grind for this engine is likely to be the one that the reputable cam grinder that you will be using, recomends.
He will need to know a bit about the car & the engine & he should make his recomendation knowing that if he screws it up, you will tell everyone, & thats bad for business. If he gets it right, you will tell everyone, & thats good for business.
I have used Bert Jones in Parramatta with great success, but it was a long time ago & i do not know if they are still in business.

Extractors are always a good idea. I prefer the GX manifold myself, but extractors are easier to find & work well.

Balance the whole rotating / reciprocating assembly.

This is a good start. I suspect that head work will not yeild a great improvement in performance at this level of tune, but can be considered if you decide to get serious about racing.

See if you can find a 1200 flywheel & have a little shaved from it prior to balancing.They are lighter than the A14 one, but are dimentionally interchangeable. I use a 1000 flywheel that has had a cut across the face down to the bottom of the groove that surrounded the original tiny clutch disc, then redrilled for the later clutch . These are the lightest of the "A" series flywheels, but don't get carried away with weight reduction.

This should provide you with a strong street engine with the capacity to give you a fright on the track, & it will have the room for further development in the head & carb area without tearing the whole engine down. If you are going to bore it, i suggest going to the second oversize. It is a full 1mm oversize while leaving room for one more bore should you score a cylinder.

This should also be a reasonably affordable engine that should start easily, run well & live long.
The unported head & single carb tie in with your comment that you need to work within a budget & the need to maximise your performance return per dollar. I think that the suggestions above will go a long way towards achieving that, but i would dearly love to see what Feral has to say as he has a much greater depth of experience.
Well, thats my two bobs worth
Conservative Chris