Geeeez, I gotta stick my bib into this one.
OK, first question, is this car to be a driver or a weekend show queen?
If it is NOT going to be a driver, then go with the full restoration including the A10 engine.
If you plan on driving it then the 1200 engine is, in my view, the best bet. The downside is that the stock 1200 air filter housing will rub on the underside of the hood so you will need an aftermarket air filter assembly or a semi sidedraught induction.
I drove my 1968 four door for about nine months in stock condition & with a good tailwind, a long run up & a downhill run I could get 70mph out of it.
When driven for economy, I could get 40mpg [Imperial gallon = 4.54609 litres]
I installed a big bore [76mm] 1200 GX engine & could get both of those figures anytime I went cruising. When driven for economy, then 50mpg was not hard to achieve at all.
The 1200 engine was coupled to a factory 5 speed which has a top gear ratio of 1 to 1, the same as the 4 speed & I used the 3.9 to 1 diff from another 1200. [It bolts right in to the B10 axle housing]
The A14/15 engines use different engine mounting positions so mods are required to fit these engines & in the end the extra torque is really not needed unless you are towing a boat & even then my 1200 handled the task nicely.
To increase the output of the 1200 engine you can use a slightly modified A14 crank with A12A rods & A15 pistons [with a little off the top] This will give you almost 1400 cc in a 1200 block that will fit, as I have said, straight into your chassis.
This 1200 engine swap is the most practical & cost effective conversion that you can do, & with one or two SU carbs, or better yet, a 1200 GX head & induction it will provide plenty of pep as well as the ability to sip the fuel like Datsun engineers intended.
Your gas station will hate you. [They like customers with gas guzzlers]
Wooden boat filled with outboard engine, tent & two weeks worth of camping supplies. It was towed for about 400 miles in summer heat at highway speed, no problem.