I have a wicked paint job in mind for my B110 sedan. It goes as follows, Kawazaki green for the main colour with two thick black strips running across the bonet and over the roof line, black sills and door shuts, top part of door (arround windows)also black.
I am hoping to get a smooth finish with no lip between colours, the way I plan to do this is to mask off and spray the first colour (prob green), then mask off the green leaving a small overlap (say 1mm) of green paint showing and then spay the black colour. Once dry, sand back with 1200 grit the black where it overlaps the green until there is a smooth finish......and then do a clear coat over both colours.
I,m using Dulon paint and I will be doing it outside.

Can anyone give me any tips with masking, i,n worried that I could spend forever marsking the strips (getting them straight etc), and then when I pull the masking off I pull up some of the new paint, or when I mask off after paint the first colour (masking over new paint that I pull up some of the new paint)

Has anyone done this.....any tips.

It will work but you have to stuff around masking up the stripes twice.
I would spray it all green, rub it back with 1200 or scuff it up with scotchbrite.
Mask up for your stripes and paint them, then scuff it up again and cover it in clear.
Then rub the line out in the clear and clear it again or just cut and buff it.
Either way you have to mess around at some point.

Old school member William from Dunedin had/has a 1200 which is halfway to the look you want.

And what do you think about pulling off the masking tape, would you run a blade along first.......

the general rule of thumb is start with the lighter colour first and work toward the darker as the lighter colour takes more to cover ... i would put first colour down then mask with a good 3m fineline 6mm masking tape(done soon after the first colour will no longer mark)you will not need to snick it with 1200 before applying the second colour... once second colour is masked then painted (only put enough paint on to just cover so the paint edge is minimal) then apply your clear coats then snick and buu... hope this helps

Hi scott77, could you go into this in a bit more detail, i,m not sure what you mean by the type of masking tape, is 3m the brand and 6mm wide and what is snick....thanks

The masking tape is made by 3M, it is a plastic (called fineline)type tape that is 6 mm wide and usally light or dark blue (217) from memory..any good paintshop carry it or have a similar product... they will know what its about... when you use acrylic lacquer, to sand between coats or clearcoat before buffing with 1200 or 1500 is called snicking... its a light sand to take out any orange peel and imperfections

Great thanks for this. So would you sand between each coat, say 5 or 6 coats of colour and 5 or 6 coats of clear, so sand 10 to 12 times. Also what grit would you use for that befor sanding with 1200 or 1500 for snicking and buffing........

if you're spraying a real clear coat on top of the green & black base, a few coats should bury the built up paint line. Sanding it w/1200 girt wont help the clear stick to the base color, its too fine a grit & unnecessary.

Datsss You wont need to use a razorblade.
I beg to differ on the rubbing back between the colour - black - clear unless you are doing them all within a coupe of hours of each other.
Most average Joe's would paint the colour and then next day/weekend do the stripes etc. You are only trying to take the little shine out of the dry paint and whatever #OOPS# you get in the paint from doing it outside.

And for the sanding between each coat of colour, is this something I need to do???
My base coat/ primer is on the car now and I have blocked that back with 400 grit, should I change to 280???? Thanks in advance....