not really sure where I should post this but I have a few questions I'd like answered 1 how much would the top end of an A12GX (with SU's and exhaust manifold cost? and as my 120Y farm hack known as the "The Defect" is an auto, I have a manual pedal box (and the manual gearbox and associated bits to go with it) how long would it take to change the pedal boxes over and do I have to pull the dashboard out?? as I'd prefer it as I didn't have to as the interior is pretty sparse now! (I've removed the hoodlining, carpet, doortrims and all plastic trim items)
see home of "The Defect"

later,

Mawler1

I'm in perth by the way. just though I'd clarify where I am

later,

mawler1

Hi Mawler...

As for pulling our the pedal box, thee are about a dozen small bolts that need to be undone...

6 that hold the pedal box itself and 4 that support the brake booster (that will need to be moved in order to get the box out. there are anoter two that hold the steering column up that need to scome out as well.

I just installed a 5 speed a couple of weeks ago and everythig is still fresh in my mind. In order to do the job properly, you should allow 4-5 hours.

The rear gearbox cross member will need to be fabricated and the Park/ Neutral safety switch will need to be rewired.

Hope this helps.

the gx stuffs price can vary heaps really, as it is rare

i just did an engine swap and manual to auto conversion for the second time yesterday, me and my friend finished in 1 day, you dont need to swap the pedal box at all, just swap the pin that the pedals (brake and clutch) rotate on,

you also need to get the metal adaptor thingy off the firewall (engine side) from the manual car, this is the thing the clutch cable slides through, you need to drill holes to mount it to the new car, but there is a plate tack welded to the auto cars firewall which is basically where this goes so linning it up is quite easy, um apart from that

the tailshaft is diffrent, you need the manual one

and also the gearbox crossmember is diffrent, you need to use a couple of pieces of steel to bridge the gap between the crossmember on the gearbox, and the mounting holes provided on the auto tunnel

have fun, its not too bad, and great results!!!

oh yeah, and you need the flywheel and clutch from a manual and you also need to get a "spigot bush", this is inserted in the end of the crank (at the back, sorta the centre of the flywheel), this is a locator for where the shaft from the gearbox slides into the back of the motor

you only need the spigot bush if you are putting the manual gearbox onto a motor that originally had an auto tranny, we didnt have to do that yesterday but i did it the first time, its also not really difficult

oh, and the wires, the red and yellow wires to the garbox need to be joined together (this used to tell the car the tranny was in park so that the car would start), the red and black ones are for the reverse light switch, and the other two wires (seperate from these four) you dont need to worry about, they were to kick down a gear when foot was planted

I think i'll stay away from A12GX stuff, if I need more power I'd probably go A14, or A15 (stock "The Defect" has too much rust for a hot motor)as they have more power than an A12GX and are cheaper! I have EVERYTHING needed because not sure about the motor (being out of a stocky it's been thrashed, but everthing else will be going into "The Defect" (they have already been removed... with a gas axe through the engine mounts, crossmember, steering linkage,and swaybar! made sure I didn't damage the gearbox crossmember though! no reporting me to the RSPCD (Royal Society Of Prevention of Cruelty to Datsuns) as the stocky gearbox and associated parts will go on to a better cause (the CIG "improved" diff will be stashed away though!

later,

Mawler1