Engine mock up

I split this entry to my build because I don’t know how to put sentences between photos.

I rigged up a couple of systems to help mock up the engine – not really a one man job but that’s all i've got at the moment.
1. Removed all suspension
2. Removed steering stuff
3. Used the strut caps and a bar to raise/lower the car
4. Used another chain on the engine
5. Used a scissor jack under the gearbox

Just swapped chains on my chain block, positioned bits of wood under the sump and there u go .... engine mocked. Actually have put more wood under the sump after the photo was taken and have the car at about the right ride height and engine / box in about their right heights too (thanks to tommo73 - went down to his workshop and measured up one that was already done).

All that to decide that i need the engine out about 2 inches from the firewall (see previous conversion to mm - above - if you must). Next thing to buy will be a crossmember

I got stanza struts on the weekend ... one right one left, same size brakes ... but they were not a pair. one has eight coils on the spring and the other has ten. ??? What to do? just use as is or cut off two coils on the longer one ?
Anyone come across this before?

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  The Bay full.JPG (180.01 KB)

so who was the man in this?

looks good, why 2 inches clearance? my engineer said 25mm (1 inch)? you could get it sitting lower to a little.

Was great to see your ute in the flesh...it's moving along nicely now.
As far as you Stanza struts go I have a similar but different story. When I bought a set of Stanza struts for my earlier ute it wasn't the springs that were different it was the
rotors. One side was smaller than the other. From memory I think there where 3 different variants...SSS, local and import. Looks
like yours might be a mix and match set too. Maybe just try swapping the 1200 spring in or lash out on a set of King springs.
Keep up the good work and if you need a hand one day just give me a yell.

cadet1200: thanks Andrew maybe a new set of springs (more money ..... who said that?)

Unfamilia:
why 2" clearance to the firewall .....

I have lined up the auto transmission with the original transmission mounts in the new tunnel...
so that's where the motor ends up after doing that
(I want to use an 'original' (ish) gearbox crossmember so i don't have to go from rail to rail and lose space for the exhaust) ...

Does that make sense?

Big day tomorrow - first inspection by the engineer. I am told he comes out in a suit and tie! Maybe I will have to upgrade from the flannel shirt and tracky dacks!

FYI: First inspection cost is $200 so I am writing down EVERY question I can think of to get value for money - keep you guys posted

Yeah very keen to see how you get on. Are you going with Sanjay?

Yours should be a little bit easier to engineer, being non turbo there are no issues with intercoolers,blowoff valve
and the like.

Good luck, I hope your on the right track with it all!


P.S. If you read this before he comes see what he thinks about Pod filters.

how did the engenieer go? pm who you used, we can compare notes lol .

Saturday 12th March 2011 engineer first inspection.

All seemed to go well apart from him turning up 1 hour late.

To set the scene we have a 1981 Datsun 1200 utility with the following intended modifications:
- CA18DE motor with Silvia Auto Gearbox.
- Datsun Stanza front Struts and Brakes.
- Honda Prelude Seats.
Other mods like rollbar, dash instrumentation, wheels (13" ok) he does not worry about

Ok let's look at what he wants for the certification:
1. Tunnel welding - Preference for spot welding but will accept 'chain' welding (1 inch welding 1.5 inches space between welds) welding to be on both sides of tunnel (top and underneath).
2. Emission system
- Catalytic converter as close to engine as practicable
- Charcoal canister to be fitted
- Original computer to be used
- Oxygen sensor to be hooked up
3. Engine clearance to be at least 10mm all around
4. Noise certified at less than 96 dBA
5. Car to be weighed and certified with 3/4 tank of petrol
6. Brake test to be completed next (final) visit

Also the cross member - I intend to use the original 1200 cross member with new engine mounting brackets welded on. this will be fine as long as the new mount brackets are the same gauge sheetmetal and they are welded to the cross member on three sides.

And the radiator - I want to open up the front for a new radiator, but I have to weld a 1 inch frame (3 sides) around the larger opening.

Lastly, what will he check next time (other than the above)
- Reverse light working
- that the car won't start in gear (auto remember)
- Brake hoses
- mirror fitment
- Two speed wipers with high speed > 45 cycles per minute
- Front demister to be working
- Brake test
- windscreen washers working.


so $200 poorer but I know what I can and can't do (and still have to do) to get on the road (legally)


.....oh Andrew.... Pod filters are ok if they are the only modification to the engine (you can have one mod)

Sounds reasonable I suppose...mind you the 1 inch radiator support support (?) is a bit disturbing as I've just finished putting
my engine bay in primer and the thought of welding in the engine bay and messing things up is a pain (actually probably even worse for you as yours already has topcoat). I'd been told by someone in the automotive trade that the radiator support is not regarded as a structural panel..seems the engineer has other ideas. Does it need to be boxed steel?
Keep the pics and progress reports coming.

I should have mentioned that the Engineer said that I have got 6 months from first inspection to get the job done.

the clock is running now!