need to check voltage at starter when tring to start, on both the battery cable on selenoid wire
also check for a good ground possible high resistance and corossion present. resistance will increase with heat. if voltage is good, would suspect bad starter. is this the same problem before replacing starter
Bob

i think the previous owner might have had trouble with the starter as well before because he changed it not longer than 3 months ago. I reckon the whole thing might be damaged but i will just have to see. I was also thinking there might be a short on the electrical system?? how hard is a short to find with the right tools? i mean, how long should it take an auto electrician to find it if there is one?

Cheers

I have struck on a similar car before (TOYOTA) that the extractors run close to the starter and cook the windings, A heat shield on the starter is a good option. Not sure weather you have extractors or not,but thought it would be a good point to make anyway

Dattodevil you make a good point, I have seen that on many Toyotas too and many fords. But on the A series engine the exhaust is on the opposite side so I would count that out.

Mikali I would do exactly what Bobs1200 stated and go from there, as if the starter isnt getting the right power it isnt going to work. And its a waste of time pulling the starter down if its not the fault.

you are right phunkdoktaspok, its been a while since i've looked at my engine. it is on the other side. lol

voltage at the battery when running should be between 13.8 and 14.8 volts. check the voltage at the battery while you crank the engine over, and it should drop to around 10 volts for a good battery- 8 volts for a weak battery. that will tell u if your battery is the problem. Also u will have a positive battery terminal going to the starter, and u will have a small wire going to a terminal on the side of the solenoid. disconnect this and measure the voltage while cranking. It should be around 12. Otherwise u will have voltage drop caused mainly by the ignition switch and will stop the starter turning over. otherwise if alll this is right then it will no doubt be your starter motor. hope this helps

yeah with my A14 and A15 I had both had the alternator on the exhaust/intake side. Why is it on one side with one engine but with other A series engines it's on the dizzy sides, early A12's had it on the dizzy side??? I'm not fully sure on that one

Cheers
Damo

check how tight the alternator belt is if it moves over 10mm then tighten it up by rotating the alternator. Failing that you may have to take it to get serviced

Mrb120, the problem is the car wont crank most of the time, when it does the starter motor sounds very strong.

I rang around and no wreckers i spoke to sell the solenoids seperately what a rip! im not exchanging my whole starter! maybe i should go to one of those pick apart places? Otherwise can anyone suggest a place to go to in sydney that wouldnt be such tight arses?

Phunkdokta and Bobs, my auto electrician checked the power running to the starter and solenoid and said none was running to the solenoid. The weird thing is sometimes its fine. At the time he checked it though it wouldnt crank. Would it be the coil pack by any chance?? i really need to give it a good look over to see if any shorts are occuring anywhere.

Cheers guys great help!!

Micko.

Mikali on the starter all wire connections go to the solenoid. 1 big thick wire +ve battery and 1 small wire +ve from key in start position.
Your auto electrician checked and said no power. To which wire is there no power?

If there is no power to 1 of these wires dont waste your money on a starter or a solenoid yet, and its not the coil, and if there
was a short there would be smoke and burnt wire.

Just find out which wire has no power and let us know and we will go from there.