In some cases its cheaper for a rotary to be in an original mazda body.
If you consider the prices of some projects its better in the end to
buy an S5 Turbo mazda for under 10k and still trounce most cars and
have all the luxuries. A mazda 1800 ute would be awesome though and
would more likely pass engineering.
Otherwise a heavier datto would help in the 13bt aspect for weight.
eg.

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thanks for your say guys and yes wardy you are right it is hard you cant engineer a 12a turbo anymore so wish i could..
But was talking to my engineer today and he will pass 12a NA so i went down to my local rotary work shop had a chat thinking of building a 12a NA fully worked get it engineered then just put a turbo on it hehe until i get defected like i said the car wont be driven much and plus i dont think im not the only one doing this.

mcdat.. im good thanks yourself? I know the ca is a good option but just to many people have them now...
What to do..What to do

Quote:

does anyone know what the fine is for getting busted?

i would go with the rotor if your just using it for a cruiser and occasional track day, if its a daily i'd go with the ca just for the fact that fuel cost's a fortune nowadays and a rotor will just chew fuel

If youre looking for something different and easier to engineer as you surely
dont want to get defected trust me, been there and almost cost me my car the
second time after a hefty fine the first time and canary.

Alternatively you could get someone here to build you an 1860cc A series that
you can supercharge or turbo.
Also theres an American racer that next season will campaign a QG18DE which you can turbo.
He says the qg18de is almost as heavy as an a15 and very compact to boot.

I wouldn't be worried about the fine and defect, I'd be more worried about hurting or killing someone and having you insurance void!

The rotor will make more power then the ca regardless of how much money you spend, and I personally think the rotor would be more reliable as the power gets higher, as you will need much more boost out of the ca to match the power. Sure the yatala car made 750hp, but that was at nearly 50psi! Lol I can't see an engine lasting very long at those limits.

My entire engine cost me $5k, engine, turbo and ecu, dyno proven at 440rwhp at only 14psi.. The head on the yatala car cost as much as my entire engine lol... I know because I was going to get them to do mine on my old ca.

For regular street duties the ca beats rotor...track car, rotor wins.

5k for CA with 440rwhp at only 14psi thats cheap! what will it do with 50psi ?? :))
#Would cost more now for a rebuilt 13bt to do 440hpatw with tuning and the rest
in the old days when import 13bt were cheap and newish no problem but not now.

If you want better headwork than Yatala for way less you should try the man himself
Steve Newing. He got 240hp in his NA with alot of research trial and error.
Id gather with his knowledge and 15-20 hours of his time it be halve that price.

That's my 13bt that I bought for $5k D lol.. I wouldn't dream of making that power with a ca for that amount!

The 13b I bought has been fully rebuilt, all the good gear, gt42r and a microtech, 1000/1700cc injectors, all for $5k, for that money you can't go wrong.

go rota!! youll never buy another piston motor!

Wards I was gonna say thats cheap!!!
A stock rebuilt factory ca18det will make 300hp
When you have to fully rebuild the 2:
up to 300hp ca18det cheaper
over 300hp to 700hp rotary cheaper
over 700hp all bloody expensive and short lived except for the 2jz.

Yes true but an unopened s4/5/6 will make 300hp easily. Wouldnt even need to change the turbo,You would atleast wanna strengthen the ca and add an aftermarket turbo to reach that power... But any way they are both good engines, just depends what you wanna do. And remember regardless as to what engine it is, its all in the tune!