thanks for all that advice guys,
went with shoota's advice and got the KYB camry insert perfect dia fit with a 332 body lenght.
Just wanted to confirm im doin this right and maybe it might help some guys in the future.
Body lenght of the new insert is 106mm shorter then the original insert, is that how much i remove from the strut tube?
(hopefully these bodgy paint pics help!lol)



Im using HSD sleeve kit and going to order a set of ebay camber plates so it might be self explanatory when i get em but ill ask anyways.
where on the insert shaft does the top spring perch sit? in the 15mm section? or on the notched section? (marked X) or??





These are the camber tops im thinking of getting they have an 18mm interal dia hole in the berain will i need different shims?

Hey Rob, glad to hear you got all your bits together!

You do need to cut out pretty much exactly the amount that the insert is shorter. The only thing you need to be careful of is that the cap seats on the insert the same way. As in if the flat of the cap touches on the same part on top of the insert. The Stanza cap has a ring inside that holds down the insert. With the R31 inserts being bigger in diameter don't touch the ring so it makes it seats a bit different. I think the 180 strut caps are flat so shouldn't be a problem. Just put your tape measure down the tube with the insert in to make sure of your measurements.
My struts are cut up ready to be welded hopefully tomorrow. I'll take some pictures of that and the inserts and how they go into the strut tops.

ive installed the struts and camber tops left the coil over sleeve floating for now,
need some help with castor and camber guide lines.
ive gained about 15mm neg camber by shortening the struts and camber plates, and the wheels still sits past the gaurd 20mm.
im going to purchase some adjustable LCA's to gain a bit more -camber. is 20mm asking to much? the wheels are a 25 offset and the way the wheel is designed the spoke already petrude the outer rim so going for more offset really isnt an option as yet. i can machine the back of the wheel 5-8mm as there about 12mm to the spring and heaps of room for the caliper. also could go a 185 instead of the 205 on a 6" rim? which would allow me to machine more off the wheel hub? how much is too much -camber?

as for castor, using adjusable rods how much does in actually pull the B/J foward? at the moment the tyre hits the inner wheel well when it not even half turned so im guessing ill need about 15-20mm? i can also go a 35 profile tyre instead of the 40. and get a smaller rolling diameter? how much is too much + castor?


any help appriciated guys.

The wheel sits 20mm inside or outside the guard with a 6 inch wide wheel with a +25 offset???

on my car with 200b struts, lengthened control arms and 15x6 +20 offset wheels the wheel is still inside the guard.

But it sounds like you are trying to get the wheels in further if you are wanting to machine the wheel mounting down
But then wanting to lengthen the control arms to get more -camber, which would push the wheel out further

What size wheels and tyres are you running? 205/40 something it sounds like which on up to 15s or 16s shouldnt really be a problem

Using adjustable castor rods, it will pull the balljoint as far forward as you adjust the rod, or a little further coz its located further out on the control arms

too much camber, for the road more than a couple of degrees will probably see you going through tyres rather quick and not actually going round corners as well at normal street driving speeds due to the tyre contacting the road
Castor, dont think you will really be able to get too much, you will just have to cut your actual guard out so that the tyre doesnt catch it, and your steering will be heavier and have less lock the more caster you go

trying to get the wheel under the guard using camber won't work real well it's way to far out. my wheels sat out of the guard about the same and i had a huge amount of camber looks like im getting ready to go out on the track lol