Hi... yes, I'm new, but bought an August 1971 240Z to rebuild this winter and I am nearing completion with one problem. This site did come close to answering my question, but I need a parts number that is specific and that was not given. The car had a starting problem that we confirmed was a bad electrical contact on the switch (we hot wired the car to get it started; bypassing the "start" 12Vcircuit on the switch). The car runs fine on the run 9V circuit. I need a new switch. All parts companies will give you a number of a larger electrical five terminal (position) switch that is NOT correct... Someone posted earlier about a KV-1 unit, so I looked at the one installed in mine; it was a KV-3. I researched that, and came up with a ton of hits on a soviet tank.... geez.... So back to the question. My electrical switch has a smaller diameter, has FIVE spade terminals not four... the keyed part does have the "accessory" on it, so it is five terminal, but I cannot find a reference to KV-3 anywhere, and therefore, I cannot find the electrical switch that plugs into it. I have a guess.... but it will cost me $20 plus shipping to prove that guess... I was wondering if anyone can help me with a switch number? And yes, I did pull the existing bad switch which had one screw (see attachment), not two, holding it in place, to see if a parts number was stamped on it... no luck although it did have an HO 60 embossed area... and the five spade terminal functions match the locations of the larger spade terminals (IE B for battery and IG for ignition etc)... I uploaded four attachments... two show my bad switch (always on the right) next to the switch I bought that is supposed to fit which is too large (always on the left).... compare if you want. Then there is the keyed part (KV-3) and the right diagram with the ACC is identical to mine (five position not four). Finally, is the diagram sent by the company rep from SMP and their switch called a US 116. Again, the spade terminal location and function matches, the size is right, and I am sure it will fit my KV-3 assembly... so what's the problem? Look at the slot where the key goes in, and comes out... that is the "lock" position. The lock position on this new electrical US116 does not appear to be in the same place as where I need to turn the key to lock to remove it or insert it... does that make sense? Otherwise, everything is right... I think I might try this US116 unless someone can come up with the exact part number for the smaller electrical switch used in the 1970- September 1971 240Z cars... All help and suggestions appreciated... and here's hoping someone has been there and done that... Looking forward to hearing an answer to this!!! if there is one.... Thanks!

Attach file:

---

  s1.jpg (6.58 KB)


  s2.jpg (6.25 KB)


  s3.jpg (9.44 KB)


  s4.png (154.29 KB)

OK, Let's start with where are you? this would be helpful in determining what you need.
The part numbers you give don't mean anything without knowing whose number it is. Different manufactures use different numbering systems. It's been a number of years since I've seen what your looking for and almost that long since I worked in a dealer, BUT if I remember correctly the same switch was used on the PL510, produced the same years. And if I remember correctly (and I am probably wrong) the number from a dealer should be 48750-E4700. It very well could be that you will need to visit a dealer to get the correct switch.

The 5-position small switch is not used by any 1200 which is why you didn't find information on it here.


> (we hot wired the car to get it started; bypassing the "start" 12Vcircuit on the switch).

That is most commonly caused by a miswired coil/resistor. It could be a bad switch, but you'd have to test the switch directly to be certain. The coil/resistor has two 12V wires, one for start and one for run.

Thanks.... I'll try to do a little research on that number and other information you provided. I have been down the road with several companies on this problem and SMP (standard motor parts) was the company that was referred to by several parts companies and forums, so that is who I contacted. They got the same pictures and information and their customer rep said that it looked awfully close to their 116 or 119... He was right. I am 99% sure that Datsun did quite a generation switch over in September in all their models. When I researched all facets of this problem, the only hopeful site that seemed to address it was this forum and I was delighted to see the replies. I appreciate your help and find it incredible that someone may even remember a parts number from that era. I did contact Nissan about this, but was told by their rep (Krissie) that they would only provide customer support back to 1984. Again, thanks for the information. I am sending the incorrect large switch back to the seller, tomorrow, and he has agreed to send me a 116 to try.

Yes, I got to the part where the website showed the two switches, and saw that the smaller one had four terminals. I re-read that part several times trying to find any mention of the smaller switch with five terminals and as stated, it was not there and now I know why. The hot wiring procedure was used long after all the diagnostics had been run on the car to trace the problem and yes, as sometimes happens, we found the problem, by accident. I also suspected other problems and we tried different interventions to eliminate those possibilities. The seller did start the car to drive it on our car hauler when we picked it up so we knew it ran, but how did he start it? We did the usual protocols... checked for spark at the plugs (none) and then at the distributor..... and followed it back to the coil. We were betting on a bad ballast resistor and/or coil until they both checked out fine except for the 12 volt circuit. The test for that is a simple one; pull the column shrouds, and let the ignition switch hang down and use a test light on it (after memorizing what each spade terminal did) When I got to the point where I had the key turned to run (9 volt) those wires lit fine and so did my friends test light at the coil/ballast resistor... When I turned to start I got a momentary contact on my light as the starter turned, but as the key advanced further to "start" the light went out for that terminal... The same was true at the coil. No 12v current, no start... So we needed to get 12 volts to the coil, and therefore the hot wire, and there it was ..... started immediately, and of course, when the key moved back to "run" the other 9 volt circuit kicked back in, the hot wire removed, and therefore the switch contact was bad.... that is what led to this all..... When the key is turned to start, the initial contact does provide 12 volts... and you have to be careful to stop turning the key right there... and yes, we did subsequently start the car this way but this problem is not going to get better; only worse. It is our last issue concerning the motor although it will need some adjustments before we do more than take it around the block. Rambled enough.... and will take a look at some of the information provided and again... thanks so much for letting me intrude on your forum....

Update: I just spent about an hour researching the new leads I got from you. What a memory you have. The number is indeed a Nissan (Datsun) number, but it yielded no websites with pictures. I then tried your suggested vehicle and the usual happened concerning parts stores such Oreillys, Advance, and NAPA in that they do not carry a line this old. However, I did hit a pretty good lead at Rock Auto, when I punched in the 1970 510 pickup you suggested and went to look at the "ignition switch"... and there it was. The picture only shows one side, with the spade terminals. So now, I have a couple of theories. First, this unit was used for only a couple years by Datsun, at the time.... OR a previous owner installed this keyed ignition replacing the original. I will never know that until I find an owner of an identical car. The switch is a BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011413 and the picture confirms as much. It is a closeout which makes sense as well. When I pursued this number and the other parts numbers given, it was "superceded" by another number which gets you back to what I call the "two screw" switch that does NOT work for this keyed part. I have traveled a long path to get here, and as always, you have to find the right guy.. I thank you. I will now do some more research on this switch I found at Rock Auto to see if I can find more information on it (and pictures from all sides). Thanks so much for all your help!!!

Glad to hear you found the replacement.

By the way, most likely is that someone replaced the 240Z steering lock with the pickup version(all S30 models used the same ignition switch).

Aquick call to my local dealer comfirmed that part number 48750-E4700 is still a good number, they show a price of about $52.00 U.S. dollars. Hope this helps.

Good Morning: been out of town for a few days... got back... package with the switch from Rock Auto.. and it is wrong, so it will go back.. checked the forum to see if there was any more information and was pleasantly surprised to see this post.... 48750-E4700... I searched for this, and got some hits, mostly in bulk ordering info from China... I also contacted Beck Arnley, and asked them for more help and I am waiting for them... I am shocked to find only a few companies that will sell this item aftermarket especially, relative to how many apparently are produced... But I do have one lead.... and will follow it... problem is, I don't live near a Nissan dealer and am out in the sticks.... but I am getting closer to the answer... and I do appreciate the contacts.... and I will keep looking when I hear back from Beck Arnley customer support... for some reason, I tried to find them online and struck out too, and yet, this morning, there they were.... strange some times I guess.... 48750-E4700 This does appear to be the relevant part number.... and I would love to walk into a store, bring my bad one in and match it up... Thanks again...

Dennis

Per the USA Datsun parts catalog, all S30 models used the same ignition switch: 48750-E4700.

Large, 2-lug unit. Don't know how your Z got a different unit. Perhaps get the right steering lock unit at a wrecking yard? There are lots of Zs in wrecking yards on the west coast.