Im gonna cry

a gtr for 3000 or 7000

thats like every mans dream car here and at those prices everyman could have one, god it puts our cars to shame

Yet another step in the right direction, today I bought a Greddy Intake manifold to clean up that side of the SR20, and a set of Nismo 555 cc injectors and Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Next step is going to probably be the turbo, I've got a few eyed up, but am still waiting for my T3/T4 top mount manifold to come in the mail!

I was waiting all this time for a covered parking spot at the auto shop here on base to open up, and when I went there yesterday they had given my spot to someone else and proceeded to tell me I wasn't even on the waiting list, which all the other times I went, I was "the only one on the waiting list" Frickin bastards...anyway, I'm just going to get an uncovered spot as there's no waiting for those.

It's not going to be parked there very long anyway...just long enough to pull out the trusty A15, cut out and fit the intercooler/radiator and shifter, and then rest the SR20 in there so it can all get picked up and delivered on a flat bed to Matsuoka.

I still gotta get a Ute rearend for it too...and I'm still waiting for my worthless friend to send me my 280ZX front suspension/brakes for it. What is it with procrastinators!!!

-Andy

The parts I just bought:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... agename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... agename=STRK%3AMEBWN%3AIT

T3/T04E Top Mount SR20 Manifold

Here's the top mount manifold I FINALLY got in the mail today. I won it on Ebay back in January and the dude finally sent it after tons of emails I had to threaten him with negative feedback. Anyway it's here, so now I can get the turbo...although I'm thinking I may go with a different (prettier) manifold than this one...this one is just so ugly, tough, and strong...which is cool don't get me wrong... but I think there's a better one I can go with. There's a couple things I don't like about it such as the turbo mount studs being welded to the manifold, and a couple of the ports not lining up too well with the exhaust ports. It'll work, but I just don't know if I'll use this one.

Well, today I got together with my brother and I drove the Datsun to the shop to start surgery. Had the engine, tranny, radiator...practically everything out in about 2 hrs tops. I went ahead and already cut out the battery tray and the radiator support so I can start figuring the right size intercooler and radiator.

From looking at everything today, there's a slight possibility I might be able to use the stock turbo location/manifold in the 1200, but it's going to be real close to the steering gear box. If I can use the stock turbo manifold/turbo, this will be SO easy and I'll save a LOT of money. I've already got the S15 T28 turbo and header to use IF the stock location is a go. If there isn't room for it, I've already got the top mount manifold, I'll just have to buy the turbo (T3/T04E) and external wastegate.

I haven't actually trial fitted the SR20 yet, but will probably get to it either next weekend or sometime next week. Tomorrow I'm going to spend some time measuring and trial fitting the intercoolers and radiators I do have right now and hopefully getting a good idea of what to go with up front.

I pretty much will only get to work on this during the weekends as my frickin work is, and has been REALLY busy during the week. Not a big deal though, within a month I should be able to have it trucked down to Matsuoka to get the custom work done (engine/tranny mounts, intercooler mount/plumbing, custom driveshaft, exhaust, electrical work etc.). If I can use the stock turbo, I could probably get this thing up and running within 2 months! Well enough from me, here's links to the pictures I took pulling the engine and stuff.

Before

During

After

After Cutting

Sitting after a long day

I took down the measurements and bought the new intercooler today. Also, the stock 180sx radiator fits PERFECTLY in the 1200 and I will be using it.

INTERCOOLER

The intercooler is 18" x 9" core, and 2.5" thick with 2.5" inlet/outlet with the inlets placed both at the top on opposite sides. I will have to do VERY minor trimming, if any at all. Keep in mind I have already trimmed off the stock radiator support to open up the front a little more.

From my measurements about the biggest you could fit in front of the radiator without a crap load of cutting is about an 18" wide core (about 26" TOTAL length MAX) and I wouldn't go much more than 13" high as you will start to interfere with the hood latch mechanism. And for depth, try to keep it under 3" thick. Most intercoolers are 3" thick and if you can get one thinner than that (2" - 2.75") it will only make the job easier with less cutting and less protrusion into the engine bay.

My goal is to keep the intercooler in front of the radiator and behind the grill without chopping up the entire front end. As a reminder, the length of the SR20 is what can bite you in the butt if you're not careful and you will want to keep the radiator and intercooler as THIN as reasonably possible so you can also fit in a slim electric fan and also still have room behind the engine so you can reach the bellhousing bolts.

I will be busy all week so don't expect much new news before next Saturday except for maybe arriving parts like the Greddy intake manifold, Blitz Boost controller, and Nismo 550cc injectors and FPR.

FUN FUN FUN!!!!

-Andy

GREDDY INTAKE

My new Greddy style intake arrived today for the SR20, it needs some cleanup, but it's not bad for the price and will look SO much better than that crappy stock setup. If you ever look on the SR20's stock intake it's got all kinds of brackets on the underside and it clogs up that side of the engine and is just plain huge compared to this one. A much needed improvement for any kind of SR20 engine swap....

Well today I finally got to go and size the SR20 into the 1200. It actually dropped in pretty easy, I took the sway bar out to make things a little easier, although the engine just barely fits inside the aftermarket 7/8" thick sway bar. The GREAT news is that I can use the stock turbo location and outlet pipe!!! I was a little worried about it all hitting the steering box on a LHD car, but it clears fine with plenty of room!!! Now I won't need the top mount manifold and all that other crap! This is going to make things SOOO much easier!!!

There is one problem though, the Greddy style intake is a lot longer than the stock one, so there isn't much room between the throttle body and radiator. The engine can still go back another inch or two so we'll see if I can get enough room in there to fit the intake, otherwise I'll be stuck using the stock one.

Anyway, I'm leaving for Thailand tomorrow, so I won't be able to do anything on it for 2 weeks, but I've posted all the pictures that people have been dying to see to show everyone how much clearance you have to work with when putting the SR20DET into an originally automatic 72 1200 Coupe. Here's links to the pictures!!!

Suspension Height with SR20
Oil Pan clearance
Steering box/turbo
Steering box/turbo
Left side of the engine bay
Outlet pipe location
Outlet pipe exit location
Rear engine shot
Front engine clearance
Rear engine clearance
Engine mount Left side
Large view of engine
Zoomed out view of engine

Some great commentry and progress shots, good work.

Very cool pics and documentation.
So I'm assuming that everything on the engine in these pics is stock except for the exhaust manifold and turbo.
That does fit alot better than I expected.

Yes, everything on the engine in the picture is stock except for the manifold, which is a full stainless steel Jet Hot coated item. The turbo is stock too. It will NOT be stock when it goes in for good. Here are the items I have for it that aren't in the picture:

Z32 MAFS
S15 ball bearing turbo
Rocker Arm stoppers
Greddy style intake manifold
Stainless steel 80mm outlet pipe
Blitz Dual SBC (boost controller)
Enjuku tuned ECU and/or Apexi Power FC
Large FMIC
NISMO 555cc injectors and regulator
Open element air filter
No accessories/fan, only water pump and alternator being driven.

I'm looking at buying a set of Tomei PonCams (256 or 264) and Greddy underdrive pulleys too.

This engine puts out 215 rwhp with stock everything, and with the above components this combination is good for about 300 rwhp and a whole lotta nasty low end with that S15 turbine. I drove my brother's 180SX that was setup with the previous mentioned items and it was really FAST, went sideways going 50 km/h when I gave it the gas. It's going to be a weapon!