yes, same Guy, the MGEXP and Datsun1200 sites are my two favourite....
Here is a picture of my engine bay half way through replacing my knackered 60L gearbox with a 60A.

I liked the dogleg just because it was unusual... however must confess the 60A is easier to drive ...

I use the std sump, no need to modify. I cut out the heater/battery tray and welded up the holes (i dont need a heater) and made a bolt-in battery tray.

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Thanks for the pics Smellofbikes. I dont recall any MG owners that had to do the remote filter setup. I recall one owner had to set the engine to the left slightly in order to clear the oil filter. Thaifrog's toyota filter may solve that problem. Wont know till I get my guy to set it in there and determine what will work best. It looks like the Spitfire's framing is different from the midget. I wish I had all that access! Jealous of the spitfire bonnet.

Thaifrog, your engine is sitting way back! You dont even need to cut the steering rack crossmember. Did you have to cut a larger opening in the tunnel to make clearance for the shifter? Also, on the midget the yoke and u-joint assembly hit the tunnel if its too far back. You dont have that problem on your Austin Healey? Tell me what happened to your 60L.

Heres a picture showing where the gearstick is.
I think its a little further back from standard.
The transmission tunnel has been modified slightly but not by a lot, it was done by PO, i bought the car as a part finished project and finished it off.
I think the issue with the yoke hitting the tunnel is when people use the conversion kit to use the gearbox with the original BMC engine.
Remember its your conversion, you are in charge, you can position the engine how you like as long as it fits.....

My 60L gearbox became very noisy and then started to leak.
I need to rebuild it with new bearings.

BTW you can get one piece flip up fronts for midgets too, that make it like a spitfire. I have one on my car, undo 4 screws and unplug the connector for the lights and you can remove the whole front body... makes things much easier to work on.

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This is the gearbox mount i made, just bolts up under the floor with screws coming through either side of the trans tunnel and behind the big square section cross piece thats in front of the seats.
Uses the std Nissan rubber mount.

one piece of angle going across. Then another piece with notches cut out of it then bent and welded to the cross piece.
Had engine and gearbox in position and supported by wood, then measured the height i needed.

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Thaifrog looks like a simple transmission mount to fabricate. Will show my fabrication guy this image. I have the original transmission mount but will probably need to get a new one to go along with this setup.

DD and others...... Ok back to asking more questions..... another individual that is doing this conversion advised that the B210 oil pan is a better pan to use if the engine will remain forward which requires notching the pan so that it clears the MG crossmember, which is what I plan to do. BTW...nice explanation on the oil pans for the A series engine in Tech Wiki (just like everything else). Since the B210 is a mid sump it would be better to use in this particular situation because the A15 sump oil capacity is towards the front. What is surprising to me is that the A15 front sump oil pan has a capacity of 2.8 liters whereas the A14 mid sump oil pan capacity is 3.2 liter. Less oil for a larger engine displacement?? Please explain. This is ideal since notching the oil pan may reduce some oil capacity but it looks like we have .4 liters of oil that we can work with. And as explained in Tech Wiki, I need to grab the dipstick and pickup tube as well. Anything else that I need to know about? And since the A14 engine that I will be pulling the pan from is still in the vehicle, will I be able to access all the bolts to remove the pan? Thanks for responses.

The A-series engine will run fine on 1.5 liters of oil. So there is absolutely no need for 5 liters. But when going around corners the oil will slosh up the side of the pan, so that's why 3.5 liters is the typical amount used for pan + filter.

Pull the pan is difficult when it is stil in B210 vehiclie. You will be able to reach all the bolts, but won't be able to pull the pan off without lifting the engine a bit. The pan sits very close to the engine crossmeber. But no worries, just undo one engine mount bolt each side, jack up the engine and let it hang off a 2x4 or pipe or something.

A15 oil pan is unique. The A14 pan will not clear the A15 crank throws on the left side of the pan. If you want to use an A14 pan, you can beat four bulges in the side of the pan

after recently giving away an A14 sump from a FWD pulsar
Ive noticed they also have the bumps and extended front
hump can be made into winged section very nicely.

D...what do you mean about a winged section?? Do you have any pictures?

The oil pan in the B210 car is sitting in the pic-and-pull salvage yard which may be difficult to do all that. It may be easier to just get the whole engine pulled which the owner will do that for $100 and drops it in my truck with his front end loader. The A14 motor is the 80HP version with a H72 head, would the camshaft work well with my GX head or do I just go with the Iskenderian cam? Want to determine if its worth just getting the whole motor and take parts off of it for my A15 rebuild.