Most times if I go in there and I don't know what year,make,model they won't even help you.

you need to start shopping at N.A.P.A. -- they actually will looks stuff up and take a look at what they have (most NAPA stores I have dealt with, they are independently owned so I image it can vary)

Quote:That distributor is a Hitachi make, so need to buy a Bosch brand cap. Buy a cap for a vehicle that uses a DR4 distributor.

For example:
* Nissan 22162-15M01
* BOSCH 03177 $3.35 USD
* ACDELCO E396
* STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PJH152

Quote:Easy to test that. Pull the plug wire out of the center of the distributor cap, hold it near bare metal (such as the strut tower bolt) and crank the engine. If there is no spark, it has nothing to do with the distributor cap


Quote:The cap is plastic so when you say corroded i'm thinking of the metal terminals in the cap.

Corrosion is normal, go out and check the cap of your good running car and you'll see some corrosion
* Inside the cap terminals normally have large amounts of metal oxidization. It causes no problems, and can be scraped off with a screw driver or knife


* Outside the cap -- down in the plug wire socket -- should not be oxidized unless sitting without the wires/leads installed and got wet. In that case scrape them clean
* If only one of the five leads is oxidized while the others are shiny it indicates a plug wire that is bad. No need to replace the cap but clean the terminal you can use De-oxit or do what I do just scrape the metal so that some shiny metal shows through. If it doesn't run good, replace that one plug wire

The time to get a new Cap is when it is burnt (spark tracked), cracked or broken. I've also seen one or two that were moldy

Wash the cap with dish soap and water to get grease & grime off, then let dry overnight. Datsun caps almost never need replacing

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Thanks DD. Always a life saver!

The tech wiki article I was reading made it seem like the Bosch one was the only one to use. That is why I got confused.

Regarding the cap, when I inspected the terminals on the underside of the cap they were very very oxidized and when I tried to scrape it off with a screwdriver chunks of metal came off with it.

There was no mold. Also the plug wires appear to be okay.

I am going to buy a new cap and rotor just for piece of mind even though with your suggestion I could probably get the old one to work.

Regarding NAPA......At my home town, the NAPA store was great. The store owner was very helpful and a great guy. Where I live now, it is a much bigger town and the owner is a big strange. Most times I go in there if I don't have a part number or year,make,model he gets angry. Autozone and Advanced Auto they are the same way.

Now that you have given me some part numbers I am going to try NAPA again.

Will report back.

Went to NAPA and the angry man told me that the cap is located in TX and the rotor in OR so its $8 ea. additional shipping charge to get them to NJ.

Instead I avoided all this by going with RockAuto. I got suckered in by their TV ad jingle, now it is stuck in my head all the time. While I was ordering I got some new plug wires too because they were only $5.50/set and a new oil filter (for next time) on clearance for $1.21. Its like thrift shopping but for car parts. :)

While I was in NAPA though I bought a package of 20 gauge fusible link wire as most of the ones for sale on the internet are 18 gauge or thicker.

Does anyone know what length I should make my fusible link? I have a 10m long roll of the stuff!

Quote:

Is 6 inches the length?

I'm thinking it's about 2 inches in length

Wow that is bad NAPA, never have I been charged extra for getting a part to the local store ...

Yea like i said, this one NAPA is not as good as the one I used to go to.

Okay 2" it is. I have about 19 feet 10 inches of excess if anyone needs some

I don't have the electrical terminals though, I plan on using some crimped connectors