I agree that the splicing and soldering will provide for a better connection instead of the jumper wires.
It never crossed my mind to increase the size of the wire between the battery and the alternator as part of the conversion.
Thanks so much for all the comments and feedback regarding this conversion.
I'm anxious to see how much steadier the voltage is going to be in comparison to the stock setup, which was horrendous especially with EFI considering the crazy voltage spikes that could have damaged my injectors.
Thanks again.
Roger

I finally installed the IR alternator together with the correct jumper wires on the female end of the regulator harness as per the previously posted wiring diagrams.
I turned the ignition one, and the charge light came on.
I then started the engine, the charge light immediately went off and the voltage was between 13.7 and 14.0V.
After about 1 minute or so, the charge light flickered for a few seconds and then went off. However, when it went off, there was no longer any charging voltage. I double checked the connections and jumpers and everything is OK according to the posted diagrams for the IR alternator. There is no evidence of any electrical burn odor in the alternator or any warm/hot wires between the alternator and the battery. I'm wondering if some diodes could have failed as this is a re-manufactured alternator that may have been defective right from the get-go.

If it was my car, i'd re-check the wiring. With engine OFF, key ON, pull the T-connnector out of the alternator and check for 12V at both wires of the T
* 0 V - wiring problem. Perhaps the Fuse Box. Or maybe the dash light burnt out
* 12 V - good sign

I just rechecked the wiring and they're all OK.
The dash light checks OK.
The rectifier checks OK.
12V at both T-connector wires.
It must be the internal regulator. Not sure how to check that on the bench.

Next I would check the output, not at the battery, but at the BAT terminal on back of alternator. Start engine and check red wire to BAT terminal, black wire to alternator case

Then check (while engine running) the voltage at the T-connector (with connector plugged in). When under load, it may differ from the disconnected voltage, and if so that indicates a connection problem (bad solder perhaps)

Bench test the regulator is rarely done -- I've never seen an internal one go bad. But basically you'd unsolder it from the alternator, connect + voltages (reference and sense) and ground, then check the Field terminal for voltage. Then raise the supplied voltage to over 15 and verify the Field terminal shuts off

The Datsun 210 1979-1981 factory service manuals have a troubleshooting method, in the section Electrical System. They specify check wiring then shorting the Field to ground by sticking a paper clip in the hole on the back of the alternator. This is done with alternator on car and wiring connected

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Thanks for the troubleshooting steps.
I will check it later today and confirm if its the IR.
If it is the voltage regulator, I doubt that they sell them as a separate part for the Hitachi, meaning another re-manufactured alternator might be the cheaper option to go with rather than bringing it to a shop, having it checked and then repaired and getting hosed for labor.

Sure you can buy the regulator -- see our tech article Hitachi LR Alternator

Thanks for the parts link.
Much appreciated.
Happy New Year.

Based on the troubleshooting provided in the FSM, it's indeed the IC voltage regulator.
Now to source one locally. The alternator repair shop should stock these, I hope.
Only 5 pins to solder.

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I replaced the voltage regulator. Started the car, and it lasted about 3 minutes before the voltage crept up and stayed at 16.5v. Got it checked and the shop said there was an intermittent short on the stator coil. Got a Bosch replacement and it runs with no more spikes and drops. What a nightmare when you have a rebuilt dud.
For the jumpers, I used the plug of an old external regulator with waterproof spade connectors for troubleshooting if required.

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