In a perfect world people wood replace their brake fluid every two to five years (no one does) As PDS said brake fluid has hydroscopic properties. I have allways pushed the pedal all the way down , without giving any thought to the build up of @#$* in the untravelled section of MC. The only cars I have ever needed to resleeve the MC on were all 35+ years old.
On the cylinders which I have meerly had to rekit, there has been a reasonable build up of crap.

hmmmm.... i have always bled my brakes with pushing the pedal to the floor and never had a problem....

guess i may have learnt the hard way now....

does anyone have a part number of a good replacement master cylinder for my front disks?

Like you, i have always bled the brakes by pushing the pedal to the floor, & i have never had a problem in almost 40 years.

If you think the cylinder is kaput, then go & buy a repair kit. Next, remove, strip & clean the cylinder body untill it is sterile, just like in the instructions. Then re-assemble & install.

Just like new, for a fraction of the price

I have experienced simlar problems with up rating my front brakes. I found that the standard master cylinder didn't physicaly push enough fluid through the lines. I ended up having to put on a larger capacity cylinder off a nissan Bluebird. this fixed the problem staright away. The other thing to quickly check is that the Calipers are on the right sides, and the bleed nipples are at the top. as it is a easy mistake to put them on the wrong side and have the nipples at the bottom, in which case it will be difficult to get out all of the air.

I've had poor results with 'rebuild kits' for master cylinders, wheel cylinders, brake calipers, clutch slave cylinders. Often, those 15-to-30-year-old cylinders are pitted aluminum and still leak after hand-honing and putting a new kit in.

A new unit is no-hassle, and not too expensive if you shop around.

DatoRacer: You must have been running some hell giant brakes. I run the std MC with ca18det silvia brakes and it bled up fine. Did a one man bleed job on it. Also running KE30 corolla drums at the rear.

Craig

Ddgonzal
If the bore of an alloy cylinder is worn, then it is usually unrepairable, inless it is sleeved, but if it's in unworn condition, it must NOT be honed. Iron wheel cylinders can be honed, & in the old days, we were able to buy .007" oversize rubbers. I don't know if you still can.

If the bore of an alloy master cylinder is not physicly worn or pitted, then a new kit will economicly restore it to "as new" condition for many years of trouble free service. At least, thats been my experience, but yes, if a kit costs $60, & you can find a new cylinder in a stock clearance sale for $80, then get the new oine. The diference is often more to the tune of $50 & $150 though.

im with you dd...

id rather just go new...
whatever it costs...

so anyone got a part number?

If you know what model the master cylinder is for, then your local brake specialist, Repco, other, parts house will have the number in their catalogue. Ring & ask.

OK OK, you forced me to do it.
My 1984 Repco catalogue says the part No. for the replacement master cylinder assembly for......

B110 1200cc Sedan, Coupe Van [Disc/ Drum] from 7/ 72 on is ... P7500

This is listed as the replacement for the "Tokiko" cylinder.

Unfortunately my PBR catalogue is over at the other house.

thanks...

would i benefit from running a stanza master since im changing now?

or another perhaps.. or should i stick with the factory ute item?

suggestions?