Thanks for dropping by to visit.
The coil is fed by one of two 12V supplies.
The first is a direct 12v (for hottest spark) at start position, and about 9v when engine is running. (Assuming no alternator is connected, and pushing these figures to 12v and 14.4v respectively)
There've been too many backyard electricians who have made it 12V in both ignition switch positions to attempt to improve ignition performance. This will burn out the coil..so don't think about it.
- Disconnect the starter motor (black/yellow) wire so that the engine doesn't crank.
- Put a voltmeter across the terminals of the coil
- Turn key to ignition position, look at voltmeter for voltage. Should be about 9V
- Turn key to start position (will need to hold it on) and look at voltmeter, should be 12V.
This is testing that the coil is wired up properly to the ignition ballast resistor.
ps. quarters in the fuse holders is asking for melted wiring and dodgy connectors. Double check that all of the wiring, and connectors are in good condition. If they are stuffed, you'll have to either look for a new loom, oir wire up the engine/dash looms yourself.
ps. remember to reconnect starter wire when you are done. Also ..get rid of the Z-car and buy a 1200
Transfer
