ok folks i seem to pick up the out there gear i got a 26/28 weber bunged it on me ute and it runs like a dog and sounds like a rotary and the bastard floods its got a electrick fuel pump does the fuel return need to be conected????? has any one heard of a 26/28 weber? what jets are the go for a stock 1200 i have spent a whole bottle of jim beam while searching the net and found nothing on this carby hmmm trust piggy to get the dodgy one what cars u lot pinchin the 32/36 weber off and what jets are u usein blah blah blah

Never heard of a 26/28 weber.
I think a whole lot of fords came out with webers or versions of webers.
I have no real idea. also the holley G180. Which is what I have, is supposedly the same as a 32/36 weber.
Try goign into Cox wreckers and asking the dud stuff and not buying anything off them. I know it was a ford that most peopel get their webers off...

2 litre escorts and cortinas pretty much have all got them, best to get carb rebuilt and jetted by a pro i reckon but yeah up to you, most of the carbs are knacked by now and really need the rebuild though, it makes a hell of a diffrence having an accurate proper functioning carb

I'm full of semi-useless information for the Australia and New Zealand crowd today. Yesterday, I saw on the Pierce Manifolds website (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/) that they have some wee little DGVs on the discontinued items page. I think they were 28/32s though. They might be able to steer you in the right direction on jetting and such. I have run a 28/32 on an A-12 before. I seem to remember liking it. I think that was the engine that burned an exhaust valve though. Don't know it there is any connection to the two events but thought I'd better mention it.

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naw ... rebuilding a Weber 32/36 is so easy, why pay somebody? You may not even need new gaskets, even 20-year old ones are often resuable. Or you can get a "rebuild kit", but I think that's not usually worth it. The most you'd need is the top (float chamber) gasket. Spend your money on the jet kit, which is an assortment of jets, metering tubes, and other parts.

Jetting? Do it yourself. The ones in it will run an A12. Buy the jet kit and tinker with the jetting to get it perfect (or closer to perfect). It's better to learn this than pay somebody.

When buying a used carb, the main thing you gotta look out for is the main throttle shaft. Make sure there is no play side-to-side (wiggle it to see/feel if there is play). It should be tight, and if so it's good. If it's loose, it needs to be drilled and bushings put it.

Rebuild is easy. I've taken to just doing quick clean and inspect. The key is to be careful taking the top off, note where the parts go. Rinse the insides off with carb cleaner. Spray carb cleaner through every passageway to make sure they are clear.

Don't take the throttle plate off the carb. There is almost never a need for that.

Hold it upside down and make sure the float hangs level with the top line. Any Weber book should explain how to adjust the float level by bending the tab if need be.

Test the power valve by using a bit of hose to suck on the right passage. It should pull the power valve down.

Put the top back on. Check the spring on the choke. If it don't have enough spring, by a new electric one. It's just wired to the alternator output (not battery).

Bolt it on and go. More info at Weber 32/36 Carb page

cheers i recon i might turf the 26/28 for a 32/36 off a escort might be the go

Hey guys and gals, I just picked up a dozen Weber adapters to mount DGV carbs to A-series engines. I'm offering them for sale at US$5.00 each plus shipping. I'm going to post a picture of the lot and post this announcement in the classifieds too. If you are interested in one or more, drop me a line at dimlight65@aol.com.