Just did a search on this subject as I remember reading someone had altered/changed struts to allow hight clearance to stop the top of the strut bottoming out inside the tower.
I'm using the stanza combo but I find there is only about 2" of clearance between the top of the strut and tower.

As for disks and calipers , the Tec section seems a little out dated ( no offence). From memory I think people were using 180sx and Silvia combos now?

Can we all forward some more info that could better serve the Tech section.

J.

from my way outdated web-site linked at the bottom of all my posts "www"


The 1200 starts off with an impressive weight distribution of approx. 53/47, and stiffening up the car a little bit to remove body roll will result in very sharp turn in and a touch of oversteer out of a corner (read: good fun). Though I have found when I make a half arsed attempt at driving around a corner quickly understeer can result, solution drive hard and commit 100% to all corners .

On the other hand the brakes a 1200 comes with stock are nothing special at all, sure they are fine for the daily driver but you wouldnt be reading this if you were a daily driver. Coupe models come with discs on the front but the sedan and utes recieved drums, both will not be satisfactory on a modified 1200 and as in all projects should be the first thing to recieve your attention.


Front


Upgrading to coupe discs:

This is not going to reap huge benefits, although Im sure it would improve repeated barke operation, i.e. better heat dissapation and therefore less brake fade. Ive actually heard manufacturers braking distances were shorter for drum brake setup, which may be the case for a single stop but surely not multiple.

Anyway i started with a coupe so never removed drums but am told taking the entire strut from a coupe, you can just remove the old and bolt in the new. Though it is also required to swap in the twin circuit master cylinder off the coupe as the old runs a single system


Installing Stanza Struts and Brakes:

I installed stanza struts to give me 9.5" discs with huge pad area (single piston though) and also to permit putting wider wheels (14*5.5" maybe 6" can fit not sure) the struts are a straight swap if you use the following components
use the stanza struts and stub axle, 1200 springs and top-plate things, stanza lower control arms, 120y castor rods and 1200 tie rods. all ya gotta do is swap everything over and i think when you put the stanza struts in you reverse the sides they came from but its pretty obvious which one goes on which side when you go to put em on anyway. If you want a stiff front end too change over the oil in the stanza shockers to 20W-50 motor oil (ive done and it works a treat, no body roll) There is 250ml oil in these struts. I am quite happy with the brakes as theyll pull me up instantly without change to master and no booster used. As added bonus stanza struts installed like this give about 1 degree negative camber.

The stanza springs can be used in this install but would need to be cut down (legalities involved) and the holes where the strut mounts to the tower need to be bored and elongated out so you can use the stanza top plate, though these springs will be stiffer and its possible to lift the front of you car a little for more squat on launch.

There is two stanza struts one has a three bolt ball joint the other has a four bolt, you need the one with the four bolt, also there is notable diffrence between calipers, the four bolt has big girlocks, the three has small calipers similar to the 1200. (i think the change between struts occurs in 1980)



Pintara Discs and Hi-Lux Calipers:

My brother in law took the brakes to a new level getting U12 pintara (RWD verion) 10.5" vented disks machined to fit and HI-LUX/LANDCRUISER 4 spot callipers but this requires at least 14" wheels, booster and better master cylinder

He put these on stanza struts and tellms me:
It is required to machine the inside hub mounting hole to make it fit on, reduce its width (thickness) for caliper to fit over (depends on which caliper from which model as to much, landcruisers maybe not at all diffrent hi-lux calipers require diffrent mounts but all fit on) and machine the inside of the caliper (reduces excess material) where it interferes with the hub.

Also with these brakes you will need to upgrade your master and install a booster especially if back brakes are moded too.

I've heard this can be done with Audi, 180sx/Silvia discs also but not sure whats required to make em fit. Main problem there though is they have a diffrent stud pattern to the early datsuns. I also heard of tarago discs being used, these would be the same pattern but again not sure of details.


Booster and Master Cylinder Upgrades:

With major brake conversions you will require a booster at least off a 120y or ideally a sunny, and a bigger master cylinder especially if you modify the rear brakes aswell, a 180b master cylinder will bolt straight up or an urvan master which is slightly bigger bore will also fit(though i need to check which ones as i got one which mounted straight up to the sunny booster whereas my bro-in-law got one and had to make up an adaptor plate) the urvan booster has a remote resevoir which you may need to mount or try to find a direct bolt on resevoir to fit (found one on a corolla i think it was but no idea which model).

When you put a booster on for the first time you will need to open up the hole in the firewall, which is a pig of a job as its in a very awkward spot for getting tools in, and you will also need to drill new mounting holes for the booster

If you change from the stock drums to the stock coupe brakes, be sure to use the coupe rear wheel cylinders too as these have a smaller bore size & remove the tendancy to lock up the rears in the wet under heavy braking.

The single circuit master cylinder was discontinued for the '73 model, so if your car came with a dual circuit cylinder as original, it can be converted to a disc spec unit by removing the residual pressure check valve from the front brake section of the cylinder. This is the section nearest the firewall & it would be a good idea to overhaul it at this time.
Your workshop manual will show you how.

If you use this system, you will find that you will now need to press a little harder on the pedal to make the brakes work, & this is normal. The calipers do not have a servo, or self energising action like the drums do, & need more line pressure to do their job. This extra line pressure is what causes the rear wheel lockup problem. Thats why the rear cylinders are diferent,... to fix the problem.

Quote:

you spoil all the fun dodgeman!!!!

nah just jokes, good tip, i have that problem for different reasons and it's scared me a few times in emergency situations

Does anyone use the stock nismo bolt in competition suspension, or just go with the stanza stuff instead?

I reckon the coupe discs are pretty good. Not very big but I have tested them out abit by doing a number of highspeed stops and it pulled up great all times until about the 5th in a row when you notice you are pushing alot further on the pedal to have the same affect. In a racing situation stanza brake would provide the benefit of less fade. But just for sprints i believe the coupe ones are fine. They have pulled me up as hard as possible from over 100mph and for a street car if they lock up they are good enough.

Also tire width would need larger brakes. 215 or higher would take advantage of the stanza upgrade much better. You can only brake as hard as your tyres will grip so still running the same skinny tyre it wont provide any real benefit as they will lock-up and we all no the quickest stop it the one with the most brake applied without a lock up.

yet to test this theory this weekend.

- 120Y (B210) strut
- Sunny (B310) hub turned down to 140mm

Ok then, what about strut inserts?
J.