I am prepareing to port my head, and hav a few question's for people with talent?

*do you dowl the manifold so as to put it back in the exact same position?

*I would emagine removeing material from the bottom of the port is on no help as it would increas the angle of the turn into th cylinder, would I be corect?

*are there any gains to be made in the exhast port?

*reduding the gide in the intake port. yay or nay?

*reducing the valve stem(from guige to seat) and reradiusing vale to suit lift, any gain?

*Combustion chamber looks to me like flow could be improved??

Thank's, Connor.

Consult a specialist. Porting for naturally asperated engines under 7000 rpm is about improved turbulance and keeping decent port volume. Too much porting can cost you lots of power.

Noted, and thank's!

I would verry much like to do it myself...

and am willing to lurn from my mistakes,

Would like someone with a big finger to point me in the right direction

edit: and if profiles change dependign on carburation, it is for twin sidedroughts? Thank's

most important part is the bowl, behind the valve, try to source some books on it, larger ports = slower air speed at lower rpm, but more flow at higher rpm, have to match your porting with cam and carbs.

A helpful method is to get pics or better yet borrow someone else ported head to copy

oh and keep the port size down the right shape is more important

Allways dowel the inlet manifold.
Bolt it to the head with the gasket in place.
Find 2 places to put the dowels, usually as far away from each other as posiible.
Drill thru manifold flange/gasket into head (do I need to mention not to drill into a water gallery or oil return?) about 15mm deep into the head is plenty, ream the holes (lets pretend you are using 4mm dowels) right thru into the head.
Remove mainfold & gasket.
Tap and locktite the 4mm dowels into the head.
drill out the manifold flange holes to 4.1mm
Get the gasket and offer it up to the head using the dowels to align.
scribe around the port in the gasket onto the head , remove manifold.
Now theres lots of ways from here, you can centre punch the (very small ones) around the scribed line you just made and then using a die grinder or rotary file port match the head to the gasket marks you just made.
Do the same to the inlet manifold.
When you re assemble , the ports will all be the same size and will all line up exactly & everytime you take if off and on.
If you replace the inlet gasket at anythime you must re match it, obviously.
Actual reshaping of the ports is not for noddy's and its easy to go backwards .....
Theres some good books, like David Vizards "cylinder head modifications" Im sure theres stuff on the net.
Depending on what state of tune you are aiming for, reshaping the combustion chamber , and cc ing them will give good gains, by unshrowding the valves, especially the inlets, then milling the headgasket face to bring the bowl volume back to where it was originally or probably higher , to raise comp.
If you want to alter the inlet port shapes, I would recommend someone with a flow bench do it for you.
Port matching + valve unshrowding + ccing + more comp will give really good results ...

Next step is big valves + serious porting , which you cant do, sorry to say,unless you have a flowbench you can borrow.

Thank's a'lot fellas, I'll do some homework!!!

the best thing you can do from home to get more performance out of your ports is to match port them, as in match the exhaust and inlet port size to the manifold size.
also if anything leave the base of the port alone and touch the top of the port.
this is only proven effective if you have access to a flow bench. so talk to a professional. it is also a good idea to have a couple of heads and do different things to each and then test them. then have a final head and choose which method/s to do to the head
just my opinion so dont take it as gospel please.
cheers kurt