Hey guys and girls this has been a long winded project but I need to get it done. I haven't really done a build thread yet but will post up pics of what I've got and installed etc and I'll take it from there. I've had to do all photos as facebook links atm because everytime i try photobucket my shockwave flash player thing stuffs up! And i hate using this uploader doing one at a time! If anyone can suggest some other ideas it would be greatly appreciated.

Heres a few pics of the beast when i first got it. Was in pretty good condition as it came from a country area so rust was minimal:










So the car was resprayed towards the end of 2009.

Heres a few pics of the process:




















I drove the car around like this for a while until about this time 2011. Then I decided it needed a bit more go. I decided to go the route of a L18 and 5 speed. I was told this conversion was pretty well a bolt in, it wasn't. But thats another story.

So starts the build. First up was to remove the old A12 and box (engine crane is a bit excessive):



Once that was out the bay was stripped down and painted and the radiator support cut out to make way for the new one:





There is a lot more to add but I can't stare at the computer any longer so I'll update soon.

Cheers

Im faced with a problem already. The gearbox I'm using is a 63A#1 dogleg 5 speed from a stanza. I have an auto 120y driveshaft and length now is fine and it fits the gearbox drive output shaft spline fine. On the diff end though, the flange plate is different to the diff i have in there at the moment. Its the standard 120y diff. Pretty sure H145 or Borg Warner. How do I tell?

So what I need to do is take the flange plate off the old driveshaft and weld it onto the new auto shaft. Ths will extend the shaft length a few mm but i can't see it being too close being pushed tight up into the gearbox driveshaft output enclosure/bearing etc.

Who would normally do this kind of work and does anybody know of anywhere in the northern rivers that would?

Also is a ute H165 diff the best upgrade to go to? Thats what I will probably like to do with an LSD centre eventually. And will the two flanges be the same?

H150 tail shaft flange should work on h165 but will need to be shortened again. Have you got a h150 or a Borg Warner rear diff? If bw, don't upgrade to h165- it's just as strong

Is it H150, I always thought it was H145 my bad. Not ture on the diff yet where do i check is there a number etc located on the outside of the housing. Mine is covered in dirt and crap will have to have a scratch around to find it.

All I can say is it's a 74 model and i'm pretty sure it might be a jap made one as it had a jap plate in the engine bay as well. So i'm presuming it might be a H150?

Cheers, Josh.

Read wiki

H150 and h145 look similar except for thicker axles on h150, look same from out side to me.

Nice car, love the colour. Hope to see the rest of your photos soon. As for the diff problem, it's more than likely, as you have a 1974 model, that you've got a H145 diff. The front flange pattern is very small, & there are usually studs & nuts holding the centre into the housing. The weak part of these diffs is the axles at the centre, which can break ESPECIALLY if you weld the spider gears.
The H150 diffs have bolts holding the centre to the front of the housing & a larger spacing on the holes for the tailshaft. The Borg Warner housing from the later 120Y's has a plate on the back of the housing, & the ring & pinion & spider gears can be removed as one. The H165 diffs from 1200 utes etc also use bolts & have the same spacing on the front. So if you can get a 1976-87 Borg Warner diff, get the tailshaft from 120Y with a Borg Warner diff. You should then be able to use the front from your existing tailshaft that fits the 63A gearbox to get you going. If you find a H165 like from a 1200 ute, you need a H165 Stanza tailshaft. I'd try for the Borg Warner housing myself, as I reckon it'd be easier to find the parts than the H165. All 120Y sedan's made between 1976 to 1978 used the Borg Warner rear & had the same uni joint as the Stanza's. Hope this helps some.

Josh, where abouts in NSW is Wardell. I've just remembered I have a Series 1 Bluebird tailshaft that I bought to use the back yoke. I combined this with a 120Y Borg Warner tailshaft to fit in my Sunny sedan. So I have the front yoke which will fit a 63a/71 gearbox output shaft which will take the Australian uni joint. You could put this on the front of a 120y Borg Warner shaft if you swapped over to a Borg Warner diff.

Ok it's sorted. I've defiantly got a H145 in the car at the moment. I think the BW diff would be the best upgrade to go to. Actually annoying me a bit about a month ago a guy made an offer on a 78 auto 120y we had sitting around and he got rid of it. Come to think of it that was most likely a BW diff in there. Not happy. The tailshaft I've got at the moment could very well have come off a BW diff as well so if I can find one it should all just bolt up.

Wardell is near Byron Bay in NSW. Far North Coast. I think I'll hunt around for a BW diff before i modify anything to suit the H145 otherwise I can see it breaking on its first drive haha

Cheers, Josh

Just worked on making engine mounts to be welded onto the crossmember ones today. A little fiddly but nothing too hard. Modeling them off the maddat sr20 ones: http://www.maddat.com.au/images/products/FKSR120Y.jpg

Should be plenty strong enough. Am using skyline engine mounts I'm pretty sure called datsport and thats what they suggested.

Cheers Josh

Just got the engine mount templates made and sent off with the welder. Hopefully be done during the week and welded in next weekend. I'm off to buy some goodies I think.

Attach file:

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  Engine Mount Template Drivers Side Resized.jpg (50.09 KB)


  Engine Mount Template Passenger Side Resized.jpg (57.57 KB)

Nice. As long as you can get to the nuts underneath the mounts