Well I debated about getting an Mazda rx2 rad like demacoz for thicker core but smaller surface area, but after reading up I should be increasing surface area before getting a thicker core.
This is to solve my spike of temps in traffic and when giving it a boot along.

Once it heats up in traffic, the single 10 inch pusher fan maintains it's temp but doesn't dramatically decrease the temp til moving again- which can be a problem in summer.
So I binned the idea of a different rad for now thinking should I add another 10inch fan and run 2 x 10inch fans to cool it or just upgrade to a single 12inch?

I know piggy uses a single 12 inch on a stock camry rad on both his l and ca set ups and it foes the job... So it's proven on his set up, wonder wtf going on with mine!

My fan pushes air through the rad and yes polarity and fan blade profile correct for this set up. I've done the paper sucking and pushing tests with the air flow on it.

And don- yes I replaced the rad cap, same symptoms.

just had claires rad cleaned out properly - cost $88 bux (plastic tank copper core), they take the tanks off the core and run rods through all the channels to clean out any scale/blockage

he said it was 60% blocked

she also had - split hose, thermostat that wouldnt open in a pot of boiling water, leaky drain cock and not so long ago leaky heater core.....

so yeah my hair is grey now... especially when it started over heating the brand new rebuilt motor!!!

single 12" i think would be better than two 10" (the centre hub takes up most of a ten inch anyway so actual blade area isnt huge

increasing surface area is pointless if that extra area is blocked by rad support and other things

Not only that but running all the right shrouds and fill all not needed air hole around the front of car causing swirling air, and like 1200rc said get the radiator cleaned or buy an alloy new one!!

you running engine fan or not mik? got pic of setup?

How is the water pump? I have had it where the blades were only slightly corroded but had a major affect on it's operation.
Also ditto on getting the rad rodded out, can look all good looking through the filler neck but could be majorly blocked.

Might get it cleaned out... And reamed for the pleasure lol.
Nah no stock engine fan, no room with the l and rad. I got a datsun 1000 metal fan to fit but the metal blades need to be cut down as the tips clip the bottom tank just.
That will affect the fans effectiveness too.
I need to trim the rad support more to clear more air flow through rad. Thought about sealing the edges but shrouding a push fan is pretty impossible.

Planning on fitting the reversed scoop bonnet once I Paint it too, that may assist a little to suck air out of the bay

Water pump was used but ok when installed. 2 years later shouldn't be much different. Looked better than the new steel bladed jobby sitting next to it that would corrode if you sneezed on it.

I've got the motivation, just not the weather or $$$ to do it all lol

I had similar problems. I decided to remove the stock mechanical fan as it drove me crazy when it sounds like a jet engine in front when booting it a bit. I installed a 12" fan in front of the stock 3 core radiator. Car started to run a litter hotter but still middle mark or just below it. When booting it or driving on the freeway it would climb to about 2/3 on the gauge and not drop at all unless the car is switched off so that the fan can cool down the non circulating water. I didn't get the core cleaned out yet and thermostat is brand new genuine nissan one.
So I put back the stock mechanical fan.

I still suspect my core is a bit blocked because is summer even the stock mechanical fan struggles to keep temp down and the electric fan kicks in to help it a bit. with them both the temp comes down and is ok but if mechanical fan is removed, not a chance the electric fan will do the job.

On freeway mine us ok , doesn't go High at all 185deg f all day unless up hill or booting it ir stuck in traffic. Then 190-200 easy in no time. On freeway usually sits at 170even then gets to 180f and thermostat opens then cools to 170again

I experienced that a blocked radiator will overheat even on the freeway because the water doesn't circulate at a proper speed compared to the load and engine speed. sorry if it was said before but what is your current engine and radiator setup.