Currently the water is flowing with a heater pipe connected to the bottom radiator pipe with a T piece. Same as if the heater would flow in winter but with no heater core.

Hi all
Just a question as a fellow Datsun friend and I are disagreeing on the matter although I think he has a point.
My cabin heater core tap got stuck due to rust and age in the closed position. I then decided many years ago to bypass it in the engine bay and neatly put plugs in the firewall where the pipes would have entered.
It is currently connected as follows: pipe from the BOTTOM radiator hose is joint to a T and then enters the cylinder head at the back. So radiator water permanently flows into the back of the cylinder head. As you know, when the cabin heater is activated, radiator water will anyway flow this way. My friend say I must rather block the cylinder head at the back and also the radiator T piece as it is cold water entering the cylinder head while hot water from the engine block enters the cylinder head from below. This might cause a cold spot at the back of the cylinder head. I believe he has a valid point but can it cause harm? Must I rather block so that water only flow from engine block to cylinder head?

Very easy. My friend has a coupe that he uses for rally and then also a 1972 fairlady(I think).
2.4 engine with auto box.

To come to my point, we did my GX (photo shown by ddgonzal's post) and his 2 datsuns. We used a old pump from these hand cleaner bottles. Those that you press down on the head and it squirts the hand wash soap. Hand soap is quite thick and the gearbox oil is also thick. It worked perfect. We removed the square bolt which gives you access to the inside. Wiggled the pipe as low as possible into the inside of the box and just pumped until it could not pickup anymore. We then refilled with normal GL4 80W90 gearbox oil. I don't know if it makes a difference in steering effort but what came out of all three cars was black in color. So just by replacing the black old oil with nice clean golden colored oil is a big positive in my books. We filled it right up to the bolt hole. Installed the bolt but very light as it doesn't really contain pressure. I will do it again at the end of the year to make sure all old oil is removed. Very easy to do and would recommend it for anyone.

Best bet is to remove the old one to compare to the new one when going to the shop to buy. The GX uses the same pump that the normal A12 engines used. No differences due to the twin carbs. Your issue is the arm that is on the pump that comes in different lengths. Here in South Africa we also found the aftermarket pumps at the auto stores are not of the same quality as the originals. It would be better to go electric pump.

Thanks DD
There are no clunks at all. I will try your test method when it is a bit warmer as we currently have winter here.

Hi all
looking for some practical experience please. Car had it's tires replaced after using the old ones for 18 years. Started to get bad flat spots that you could feel if driving 80kmh and over. So I took the car on the freeway 2 to 3 times just a small stretch to test everything driving at 110kmh. I picked up that when I am taking the off ramp and letting go of the accelerator pedal completely there is a soft funny noise or feeling like a very slight quick frequency vibration. When I give little gas it goes away. Can this be worn uni joints? At a constant cruising speed it is smooth with no issues.

Wow. thanks for the link. never knew about this bolt. I doubt it was ever removed in the car's lifetime.
I hope I will get it loose.

Quote:
Chances are it is because it is possibly a aluminum block.

Hi all
My 1200GX was re cored many years ago. I need to replace coolant as it has been using the current coolant for many years now. Coolant is still green and I can see the fin holes inside the radiator through the green coolant. My question. Due to the age of the car, must I maybe use a coolant flush product to clean out the pores in the block and the intake manifold where all the radiator water circulates?
I am between 2 worlds at this stage. One side I just want to flush with a hosepipe and normal tap water and replace with distilled water and coolant mix and on the other side I want to use a flush to maybe get rid of all the scaling that might be present inside the passages due to age of the engine. I am however concerned about stuff getting loose and clogging a water port with my luck.
What are your thoughts?

What also might have contributed to it is that the oil was never changed in 12 years time.
Done only +- 11000 km in that time frame.

Hi All
So this weekend I drained the gearbox and diff oils. I struggled my butt loose to get the gearbox drain plug off but eventually managed using a pipe wrench which could grip the square plug nicely.
But before this I used a number 15 spanner which I eventually managed to bend to be more of a 16mm and also a adjustable wrench. this caused the bolt to be damaged on the square edges. can we still get these bolts somewhere or must I next time get someone to build up the edges with a tig weld and then just polish it square again.

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