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L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
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G'day guys,

As some of you might already be aware I have recently been considering what engine I'm plannig to run in my 1200 Coupe. It currently has a worked A15 that I was planning on converting to EFI and turbo charging.

I have been doing a bit of research on engine swaps and combos and am starting to think there might be a better option.

"D" from this forum has been letting me in on a lot of info on a different option which sounds promising.

Started looking at the Z18ET and thought combining this with L series setup might be a better option.

I can use an L16 Block bored out to 87mm. L16 rods. Use 86mm L20B crank wihich will make it 2 litre but still keep the L16 stamping on the block without engineering issues. Would use Z20E pistons.

"D" tells me that the L series need different timing case from Z to make the Z18ET work as the timing pulleys are different to the L.

basically would use the Z18ET head, inlet manifold, timing case, turbo exhaust manifold, turbo and injectors.

He also suggested that LPG could be used using ford LPG throttle body which means no ECU amd no need to worry about emmisions.

As far as I now there is stuff all difference in the weight between this an an A15 once you consider lightening of the crank, light clutch and flywheel etc and a lot lighter than a CA18??

It seems like I could get this all together pretty inexpensively.

Just wanted to get everyones opinions. Any advice or ideas would be much appreciated.

Do you guys think this would be a big difference over an A15 with EFI & turbo induction?

Was thinking about using R30 Stumpy box too???

Posted on: 2011/11/22 19:55
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
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If your going straight LPG- no need to worry about emissions so just go l20 block- no need to worry bout l16 and mix match parts.

Like I can talk with my bitsa l16... L18 would be better rod stroke ratio IMHO.

L16 only good as all it needs is Pcv. You should come cruise meet on Sunday and chat to other members and see the cars too

Posted on: 2011/11/22 20:39
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Only issue is L20b block is taller, hard to engineer and heavier
by 10kg or even more in some castings. L16 is engineer friendly.

Posted on: 2011/11/22 23:50
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
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L18 is half way in between

Posted on: 2011/11/22 23:54
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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I agree but the bare L18 block I weighed mick vs the L16
was also 46kg a full 10kg heavier than the L16.
So finding an early L18 block would be ideal but very rare
and even the SSS L18 was the heavier one too.
L16 like youve done is the key atm with engineering and weight
still possible to go 87mm bores without issues.

Posted on: 2011/11/23 0:14
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
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Could just do l18 crank and rods, 240k pistons ( flat tops) but why z18 head then, l series will flow ok with boost, especially even the higher volume u87 heads. Open chamber surely would be better under boost

Posted on: 2011/11/23 0:18
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Wouldnt it be easier to use a complete z18? Insted of mixing and matching parts heads and blocks. If it can be engineered in my car I dont see why a 1200 wouldnt pass?

Posted on: 2011/11/23 0:59
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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There would be nothing easy about fitting an L20 crank into an L16 block, and it will cost you some money.

and 87mm is the upper limit for a good L16 block. Would be much better at 85mm for a turbo engine.

I don't really understand why you want the L16 stamping, 1.8 turbo is no problem in a 1200. Save the headaches and money and just use the Z18. Or if there's some new rules about capacities and you really have to use a L16 block, just bolt the Z18 internals in there.

Posted on: 2011/11/23 1:52
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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"The main points repeated"
Z18 and L18 are 46-50kg bare block the guy wants lighter
not heavier engine otherwise its obvious what else is avail

I meant 2mm over to 85mm like L18 I stand corrected.

"L20B crank into L16 block is no rocket science it has
been done to death" quoted from master Baz.

The mob Ive used in the past for all my machine work
Squared Line boring L16 block for L20 crank and
Machined counterweights with re-balancing $350-400
or machine crank mains to suit L16 inc hardening
plus all the rest eg balancing linishing $350
Fully Prepped L16 rods $160-180
Z20e pistons 180-200 new

rod stroke ratio of 1.543 same as honda K20 or B16

Posted on: 2011/11/23 4:12

Edited by D on 2011/11/23 4:33:03
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Re: L16 Bottom with Z18ET Top?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Ok I thought he just wanted to use a l16 due to it being easier to engineer? I dont see how 10-15kg of extra engine weight is going to matter on a street car especially when theres plenty of ca ones registered out there? My 2c anyway

Posted on: 2011/11/23 4:25
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