being new to the turbo world,,,, i have made my turbo manifold to use a1400 inlet manifold either boxed and sealed 32/36 webber or tophat 32/36 webber. which is best? and does the carb have to be modifyed apart from jetting and . i have no idea about blow off valves or fuel pressure regulators. the turbo is t25 i would hope that somegood person out there could explain to me how to set this up or at least point me in the right direction thankyou. the car is for road use. moridat

someone out there must know about this thankyou

i've done a boxed standard carb, tophat 32/36 and efi on a-series

if your serious about it I would say go EFI straight up

but otherwise the 32/36 needs a box, i ran a tophat on the 32/36 and it was constantly leaking fuel and blowing out the gasket, one day the fuel bowl even cracked. thats when i went EFI

you can get a 32/36 suited to boost but i am dubious how much better that would be

main issue with boxed is successfully operating the throttle, my boxed setup used a linkage which was essentially thread passing through a nut - it would bind up a lot

the scary part on a-series is that the exhaust is under the inlet, one the fuel leaks starts it runs straight on to the exhaust, carry a fire extinguisher!

blow off valve is simple, just buy one and fit it into your piping and it will do its own thing

fuel pressure is tricky, you need no mor than 5psi off boost, but once boost comes on you need to have at least 5psi over the boost pressure otherwise no fuel comes out. i used a crude setup with a hobbs presure switch, it detected boost and opened a solenoid to allow 16psi pressure in (when the solenoid closed the carb would get 5psi pressure from a regulated line)

you need a pump capable of 5psi more than the boost you intend, and a way to regulate it down to 5psi off boost, a lot of poeple use rising rate regulators but you need to make sure you get the right one

another tip is to weld the internals of the distributor so that the mechanical advance wont operate anymore, it stops the motor advancing at high revs, which is beneficial for running boost and to try to prevent pinging/detonation

Just go suck through for simplicity sake

when you go efi what set up did you use was it from a donor car or where did it come from thanks for the input and that means every one that had an input to this thread
thanks ...moridat

Photo of suck through and efi

Go suck through its easier

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thank you its in a morris minor what did the efi system come off i think we have comunicated before this is all new to me and i thank you for your help i was thinking of addapting a hyundi or some thing similar my car is a54 morris ute or it use to be
thanks again we will get howled down but we are using datsun motors as they are so good
moridat

all my different setups are in my photo album on this website, have a browse if your interested

all my setups were blow through twin turbo, the efi was using the factory efi with delco ecu and sensors off an old camira

i used to discuss it heaps on here, you should be able to find a fair bit of info

like i started with - it depends what you want, if you want to spend good money and get a really neat setup then go straight to efi blow through

if you easiest and bang for buck go suck through

suck through means you cant run intercooler or blow off valve, but you can easily get a 40% increase in power at full throttle but perhaps be a bit flat in other situations with say 7psi boost safely

if you want 100% increase in power and good smooth power delivery across the range of revs with no flat spots or hiccups then you really want EFI

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Suck through means there is absolutely no need for a blow off valve! It's just one example of the extra complexity and cost of the blow-through setup.

Intercoolers - the inlet pipe will actually frost up on a draw thru setup. You won't see that happen with blow through or EFI.

Draw through setups are not 'a bit flat' when not on full throttle. That's just nonsense.

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The draw through setups I've done have no flat spots or hiccups. My current setup is torquey and very smooth. As was the last A12 setup I did. And I'd imagine the factory draw through setups on thing s like Sigma turbos, DJR XE Falcon turbos etc didn't suffer these problems you're talking about either.

EFI is the best way to go, but draw through is the next best thing. Boxed carbs or hats, rising rate fuel regs and all the other bullshit is just unnecesary complexity, more difficult to tune and more stuff to go wrong - like blowing up fuel bowls! lol

Over a month ago I ran into a nice old Ke25 rolla with 4k (like A14) suck through on e10, it was a daily and goes like stink behind the old foot of a 70s plus grampa who lives in Grafton but visits his grandkids in Brissie & Maldon Vic twice a year.
He said he had it on e85 but prefers the e10 for economy and no big detours through Camby like he had made from Sydney to Melbourne last Xmas as e85 was not available on the Hume.

The non crossflow head of the A series lends itself well to suck through going blow T is just big $$$$ and few people have the $$$$ or the inclination do a good blow T A series right through till its right.

The ones that have proper BlowT setups have made big hp but the complexity & $$$$ shouldnt interest most datsun folk who prefer budget hp and fun