Webers, of course by the Weber logos on the top of the castings. Dellorto's have space between the two bores down by the throttle shafts.

Quote:I don't see why not! I don't have any other pics of it, but I am planning on buying a digital camera later in the week...

Quote:I don't like header wrap - when you've got custom made pipes, you don't really want to have to replace them every year or two. Cold air box would be good, and has been on-the-cards for a while. I got to the stage of making some cardboard templates... It will happen one day, there's just always other things taking priority - this year it's been the new engine and gearbox, suspension upgrade, brake upgrade etc.

Yep, they're 45mm Webbers on a Datrally manifold. Since this photo was taken there's some new sexy billet bellmouth ramtubes made by a friend with a CNC lathe and some good UniFilter (I think) socks - the ones that don't cost you 5 to 10bhp! It's actually a different engine now too, and I've had a strut brace on it for about a year too.

You could always jet hot coat the header next time it's apart. I've done it to mine and you can almost touch it when it's been running. That'll make the headers last forever most likely too and with a heat shield you'd be in there.

Interesting crack case ventilation box ( aka Catch can ). I can not see the box, only the edge. How is it look??? Box with filters on top??

This picture is been taken a couple years back, I do not know if the car is still around.

And I can see the electric petrol pump, those Webers would starve with the mechanical pump.

L20 blocks fit under the bonnet no dramas. I've used 2 L20s, including a 2100

I know there's a guy rallying in NSW with a L18 out to 2300-odd cc, but good L18 blocks that can take that bore are getting real hard to find.

hey... that clutch master cylinder looks a long way from the brake one. how did you go about sorting that out?
or is that a standard 1200 hydrolic one?

You've got a pretty keen eye - it is further away from the brake master cyl than it would be if using the 1200 clutch pedal.

I cut-and-shut the 1200 'pedal box', removing the 1200 clutch pedal and adding the Stanza clutch pedal. I'm not sure anymore (it was so long ago) but there might not have been room to mount the clutch master beside the brake master from the standard 1200 clutch pedal location.

looks a lot easier than using the original 1200 clutch pedal. have you got any close up pics of it? (in the engine bay and in the car???) I'm up to this stage on my car at the moment. photos would really help.

would a 200b pedal do the trick? because i got whats left of a 200b sitting around.

are you looking to put a Cold air induction box on the webers? and wrapping the extractors? for that extra bit of HP....

That kink in the lower radiator hose worries me a bit. Do you have something inside it to keep it from closing off under suction?

that rad hose worried me a bit too when I first fitted it, and I figured I'd have to look for something else to do the job, but it's been there for 5 years now with no problems.

I know what you mean dattodude, but I prefer the screaming induction note of the higher revving L18. besides a 2.4 stroker is expensive and would put me in the rotary's class. might experiment with a long rod L20 later in the year though.

I can't believe how much tighter that L18 fits in a 1200 than it does in a 1600.

Yep, the 1200 is all lean and mean, no fat. The 510 (1600) is a great car too, but a different kind of great car. I think the famous quote about the 510 was "an affordable BMW", referring to the BMW 2002.