I can help here.
No amount of adjustment will fix a worn out box. The gears wear in the central section of the gears, as these parts of the gears get used the most. By adjusting the lash between the gears (using the steps shown in the pic), you can reduce the play in the steering in the central location. But the full lock steering will become hard to turn. Making it a pain when you are parking the car, especially if you've fitted big tyres..

But it can't hurt to try. You can adjust it with the front wheels off the ground, or on the ground. Just loosen the locknut, and tighten the adjuster 1/2 a turn, and re-lock the locknut. If you can't tighten the adjuster, then the steering play is somewhere else.

Go for a drive, and see if it improves.

The adjuster is only there for minor lash adjustment. The majority of the lash should be set by placing special metal shims between the steering column and the steering box when assembling the box. The adjustment is made so that the torque required to turn the steering wheel is a certain value as specified in the factory workshop manual.

I rebuilt my steering box, this is why I know this.

If the full lock steering becomes very heavy, then the steering box needs it's gears "re-lapped", steering places can do this for a price. But with newer Utes around in wreckers, just go looking for a newer steering box.

Thanks dattodude,
I feared that the adjuster might only be for 'fine tuning' , I read the re-building the steering gearbox section of my workshop manual, and found it rather daunting. I think I can put up with the steering slop until I find a rebuilt steering box.

have you checked for play in the steering/chassis components?

It can make a big difference. It won't fix worn steering linkage, but will take a noticeable amount of slop out of the gearbox. Well worth doing on any 1200 over 10 years old or with more than 80k miles.

You don't need to jack the car up. Don't turn it a fixed amount, just take the slack out of the adjuster. If you tighten it too much, the steering could get heavy and accelerate wear of the box.

The proven method (regardless of what the manual says) is in Steering gearbox adjustment

Quote:

I replaced tie rod ends and lower ball joints when I changed to Stanza struts & lower control arms. The steering felt much tighter _before_ I put the stanza parts in... Perhaps fitting new 185mm tires has made the slop more noticable.

When I say 'slop'. i mean steering feels vague in a straight line, and feels like its moving slightly side to side when going over bumps.

Try this test: with car stopped, use one finger to rotate the steering wheel a bit one direction then another. You should have less than 1 inch of play. If you have more, it's probably the linkage or the gearbox (or often both). The tires won't be a factor in this test.

Wider tires can make the vehicle 'wander' when moving down the road. Wander is the tendency to not move straight ahead but to have little movements left and right seemingly at random. Adjusting the toe-in should minimize it.

It's normal for 1200 steering to feel 'vague' in a straight line. Even the reviewers back in 1971 said so if I recall correctly.

Hi guys.

This is just for interest sake.
If one puts in a L18 or CA18DET engine into a 1200, will it not have and effect on the wear of this gearbox?
I checked the weights of these engines and they are about 33kg heavier than a A12 engine.
This is more front weight on the steering. More turning effort.

For example city driving or racing and autocrossing.

Something else.
Lets say it is time to replace this steering gearbox.
Those of you who did it.
Is it a difficult job?

Heavier engine, it will make it a bit harder. My CA18DET didn't make the steering heavier. Under high acceleration, the front wheels would lift a little, and the steering would feel VERY light.

Replacement.. not too hard. You need a couple of big hammers, a balljoint splitter, and 2x 14mm spanners. Nissan South Africa sell them new, if funds allow.

One question...that square nut bolt is to add oil right? does it have a drain plug? should one change this oil? i fear mine has never been changed...what should i do?

thanks a lot...peace...

yes, that's the oil filler plug.

Check out the Maintainence Schedule in your owner's manual for how often the fluid should be changed.

Top it up if it is low. See the Factory Service Manual.

<-- Wiki

But can you flush out the oil in it? or it is just a top it up kind of situation...lol...thats my question...