Ross race balancer is a single pulley. I have one on my ca and will take a photo when I get home.

For the race car i don't think they are a very good option. (depending on your starting point of course).
However, we have not had very good results with wilwood either (too much caliper flex).
I have s4 Rx7 calipers coupled with ferodo DS3000 pads on my circuit racing coupe (296x22mm disc). I would look into pad choice before committing too. I have found this to be critical for racing applications (almost more important then the calipers themselves).
I have melted the dust piston seals on my current calipers, and will only use DBA 4000 discs as i have warped others.
i.e for my application i really need to upgrade to a proper racing setup.
Saving unsprung weight unfortunately comes at a cost. If you find a golden bullet, please let me know, as my next upgrade starts to cost a lot of coin.

Good thing is all the options in the US a very cheap in comparison to AUS. I would look to pick up a second hand set of racing calipers (ex nascar rears or something like that, they seem to go cheap over there).

All the best with the search.

Bryan

I run a Bosch/MSD (LS1/LS6) coil setup on my CA. Actually it's more like the IGN-1A coils.
For the power you are after they are all pretty much the same. I personally don't like coil on plug due to the head soak on the coils for moderately modified engines.
There is really no need to go to CDI even with high boost levels, so save some coin and just buy LS1 coils. Mine is a race only CA with greater then 10.5:1 compression running 22+ psi boost, no need for CDI.

You should know the specs for the coils when you buy them (dwell times and voltage compensations) and tune it into the Haltech.
To get to your 240kw goal you will have to make other changes anyway. So batch them with the ignition upgrade and re-tune once.

Good luck

Bryan

word of advice with the ross balancer, mark the outer edge in a couple of places (or at least on your timing place - I did 20Deg), cause when I put mine in I couldn't see the front markings with the engine installed (radiator is too close).
All the best with the dyno.

easiest thing to check is spark.
If you are getting spark lets discount that as a problem.
Injectors can (Not all) be direction sensitive (I know I had trouble with the ID1000 injectors being wired backwards).
So check that the +12v is on the right side of the injector and in fact they are firing.
Are you sure timing is correct?

Good luck

Bryan

Geoff,
School holidays and first time poster = spam.
keep us posted with the build, looking good so far.
What computer are you going to run?
Not sure about the handbrake though, not seen a track yet where ive required it. Good for drift and rally though.
Having said that Eastern Creek start line is sloped down hill and that is about the only time ive wished for something other then the brakes to keep from rolling on the line.
But the benefit of the 1200 is keeping the setup light, so you may find yourself changing that later to save weight.
Every bit counts.

Love it so far.

Bryan

I am still contemplating what to do with the rear. Would require a lot of work to run a 4 link and watts linkage, including moving some of the fuel system. I have a cunning plan on how to de-link the leaf springs and just use them as a lower control arm. Add two upper links and watts linkage, it will require some custom brackets.

Update, Things are not good.
All Conrod bearing have delaminated. ACL Race series manufactured in 2013. There is no reason for this to have happened, triple checked clearances, and doing a quick internet search it seems to be too common with ACL in the last few years.
Crank bearings looked ok but some of the delaminated Conrod material can be seen causing some scoring on the surface of these.

Other issues include Exhaust manifold mounting face was not flat and lifted on Cyl 4, as a result the exhaust gases from No 4 burnt through the metal exhaust gasket on that cylinder. After the Qualifying off the turbo was rattled loose (Easy fix).

Haven't looked at the rear end too much yet but know all the mounting brackets are bent, as too is the trans tunnel (collapsed where the handbrake goes, this is where I have my tail shaft loop mounted so it may have got caught on something).

Plan is to get new bearing for the engine and new Head Gasket and put it back together.
Am planning on converting the rear into a "4 link" setup and watts linkage space permitting.
Unfortunately this will probably take most of the 2016 race season to do.

I hope its nothing serious.
Ill do a leakdown test before pulling the engine. Hopefully this will show a blown H.G.
I would like to drop the pan and just check bearing.
Rear end... I'll contemplate what to do back there next.