For cyl head chambers - piece of flat plastic with a small hole in it near one edge over a chamber, sealed against the head surface with a smear of oil or grease. valves should seal themselves if in good condition. spark plug in obviously. The hole is to pump in fluid with a large syringe with ml scale. The hole will need to be slightly larger than the syringe to allow air to escape as fluid enters. Having the hole near an edge allows you to tilt the head slightly to keep the hole higher to allow air to bleed out as you fill it - if it were in the middle you'd have trouble getting air bubbles out.

Pistons - same sort of process to get the capacity of a dished piston. For a domed piston, nick a container out of the kitchen with ml marked on the side. Fill it to say 100ml then dip the piston in just to the edge of the ringland, so just the dome is in the water. The scale will show you how much water was displaced above the 100ml starting point and that's obviously the volume of the piston dome, as long as there's no air pockets in valve recesses. If there is, you can fill them with playdough or something before dipping them, and then measure the valve recess by filling it with fluid. It's fiddly, but that's life.

Exhaust VSS are considered optional by some as there isn't any real vacuum in the exhaust to suck oil in, unlike the inlet side. But high speed air leaves areas of low pressure and can suck oil in, plus crankcases and valve covers get pressurised slightly. So for the sake of a few dollars and a minute's work I always use them on exhaust valves as well. There's zero benefit to leaving them out.

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Stanza is a fair bit heavier I think, and the L series simply has to be heavier than the little 4AGE. Massive block on the L bangers. But there's no reason a Stanza couldn't be competitive with an AE86 when they're both done up to race specs. They certainly went alright in rallying back in their day. Factory rally cars got the LZ motor and George Fury campaigned one successfully. They look good with the rally flares too

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  Fury Stanza tarmac setup Oran Park.jpg (100.75 KB)

doesn't look like any more engine bay length than a normal B210 to me. Just a longer nose ahead of the radiator support.

Yeah, I've got a few old school hotwheels. Wish they'd get around to the smaller Sunnys and Corollas! But they have some cool JDM cars anyway

awesome stuff Simon!

I'm not sure what size they are on the old Dattos anymore, but on my oddball jap-import cars I normally use commodore heater hoses cut down. They're long, cheap and have 90 or 180 bends in them at one end. Supercheap keep them ont he shelf so you can size them up for yourself and find something that will do the job.
You can also get unicoils to bend straight hose without it kinking.
There's also universal Z hoses in various sizes.
or you could use 90degreee brass fittings from Pirtek etc for bends in really tight places.

Good to hear mate! Well done

if it's badly damaged, you could unpick the towers and weld them to your x-member

Put masking tape over the area and start drawing where you want to trim it. Re-apply and re-draw until you're happy with the shape. You don't need to take a whole lot off.
This was with a 185/60x14 tyre with a heap of extra castor and wide track, all of which increase the chance of the tyre fouling that front lower corner.

yep, based on the pics it looks like both of those arms could be working against the movement of the leaf.

sway bar arm is much shorter than the leaf so it will be travelling a different arc to the leaf, and it's almost solid mounted to the leaf - there's no link pin to take up any difference in dynamic lengths. You could test for a bind condition there by disconnecting the end of the sway bar and jacking up the diagonally opposite corner to compress the leaf 2-3". If the sway bar no longer lines up with it's mount on the leaf spring, that's an issue. Then test for bind in droop by jacking the front up on the same side of the car.

Do the same with tests with the traction rod unbolted at the rear. If the mounts don't align at 2-3" of droop and bump, you've got bind.