I'm going out the garage now to reassemble my U/C 4 speed now as the temp has plunged to 102F

Tom

Well plunged down to 88 here in Ft Worth after 9pm, high today was only 96. 100's for the upcoming week. Just finished taking some pictures to post here. Glad I got this group here to check all this out. I think I have to swap 2nd and 3rd gear. Larger gear is a lower gear, correct? Also, according to the sequence diagram only one baulk ring for the overdrive/reverse synchronizer hub. Which is correct because the metal tabs that keep the spread rings in place in the hub does not allow a baulk ring on one side.

I dont see any wear on these gears or hubs. Amazing that this came out of a 1981 210 and its in this condition. This gearbox is really going to transform the driving experience of my MG Midget.

DD I'll wait for a response....Once I get confirmation to switch out 2nd and 3rd, I can reconfigure and take another picture if you want to post on Tech Wiki. Bearings are not pressed on yet.

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Nice pics. Were you able to get needle bearing I.D. or shaft O.D. measurements?

DD will get OD and ID data later on. Wanted to post some other pics for now. I did have 2nd and 3rd switched out and put them where they belong. They can easily be put in the wrong place. Diameters are the same. Also posted a pic of all the gears laid out. One picture shows a gap which is where the main bearing will go.

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Caliper isn't the most accurate but its close. Bought it at harbor freight. I measured the ID of the needle bearing cage. Posted 2nd, 3rd and 5th. I'll have to remeasure 1st and post tomorrow.

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DD, I see that you posted some of the pictures and measurements on Tech Wiki. Good idea to use the OD on the shaft for reference. Much more accurate than the needle bearing cage measurements. Attached is 1st gear. I can get reverse tomorrow. Busy with my motor as well. Just picked up my A15 block from another shop. They had to clean up the poor machining that was recently done. Block had to be decked and I got my 45 degree cross hatch. Will post pics on that later this week.

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Thanks for measurements, I will try and get the measurements for the 56 series. Sadly I trashed a the bearing on the mainshaft. Thought I'd come up with a nifty way to press it on by hand but ended up inadvertently putting pressure on the outer bearing race. Fortunately I found a replacement for $15 on Amazon by putting in the Naichi nearing number. There $34 from auto parts places like rock auto.

Tom

The individual that I bought the rebuild kit from also rebuilds them for a fee of course. He says to get an electric skillet and lay the bearing on there and get it hot. Then use pliers to slide it on the shaft. No hammering required. I may be doing that this weekend. Which 56 gearbox do you have, A or L series? I got an L series with the A12 motor I purchased. Bought the motor because it had hitachi carbs with intake and GX head and GX exhaust header which will all be going on the A15 motor I am building. Dont have much use for the A12 motor or 56L box at this time.

I'm using 56A gearbox; the close ratio gear sets were only made for 56A. I have 60 series 5 speed but the ratios are far to wide for racing purposes. The shift from 2nd & 3rd results in a 3000 rpm drop.

Tom

Quote:

Tom,

From Factory,The only 56 "A" gearbox with close ratio gears is the 5 speed F5C56A.

The 4 speed close ratio ones are 56 "L".

cheers