Hi Im sure you guys have heard these questions before, but I'm new, is a 5spd Stanza box an eazy match up someone must have tired It before. Sunny 5spd boxes are as rare as rocking
horse manure and I need a 5spd in my 1200. I travell the highway at 70mph from Morisset to Maitland every day. The poor little bugger is nearly worn out and Im planning to install a
14A from a datsun van. I am concerned that the final drive ratio will be to low and I'll just wear out thae new motor to soon can someone please give me some advise.
I contemplated matching up an alloy celica box but dellows quoted me $1400 just for the bellhousing I,m hoping for a cheeper alternative

Well I put the new distributor in. It didn't come with a new ignition module (black box), but everything else was there. The car definitely runs better, no more misfiring at lower rpms,
and it pulls better at the high rpms. I still get some misfiring above 6400 rpm though, just not as harsh as it used to be. My valves could be floating I guess, even though I never had
that problem before. It could also be the fuel pump. I was just thinking about doing some head work. I could get some larger valves, mill the head some, and put some new valve springs in.
Does anyone have any suggestions on valve springs??? I once ordered some dual springs/aluminum retainers from PAECO, but they were junky so I sent them back. NISMO has some, but either
the retainers or the spring seats are no longer available. Are there any kind of heavy duty springs from another Nissan or other car that will bolt onto the A series with little/no mods?

-Andy

Here in America, the Stanza is front wheel drive and getting manure from a carosel horse is easier than putting that tranny in a 1200. Try finding a 5-speed tranny from a 77-82 210
or get a Mazda rx7 rear end. Both fit with minor mods.

Andy, Sorry to take so long but today is my birthday and it has been one long party this past week. I finally got to look at my spare parts and I have three distributors. Two are the push-pull
vacuum advance type and one is just the vacuum pull. I will keep it. I think the vacuum advance can be changed as both distributors look the same except for the advance mechanism. If you still
want it, I can put it in a box and mail it to you. E-mail your address to me at:
mareospeedwagon1@yahoo.com
if you still want it.
I thought PAECO has some of the best equiptment available. What was wrong with their valve springs? I put over a hundred thousand miles on their valve train with zero problems and that little
motor was a screamer. I could kick ass on an IROC Camaro from standing still to top speed. NO 305 Chevrolet could run with it. A lot tried. With the stock 3.9 rear gear and four speed, it
would do 140 mph and it was the sedan body. I shutter to think what it would do in the coupe body as it cuts the wind a hell of a lot more. My sedan stock did 94 and my coupe did 107 stock.
The only difference was cutting the wind. Motors and trans were the same 68 HP four speed. I used the whole valve train from PAECO; cam, valves, pushrods, lifters, inner and outer springs,
retainers, keepers, and rockers. Excellent equiptment, no problems at all with it for six years. The only problem I ever had with their equiptment was the Aluminum Flywheel stripped bolts and
I had to heli-coil it. Call Crane Cams in Florida for springs. I don't know their number but I am sure they have an 800 number. They will find what you need and they have excellent equiptment
also. You can mill a head .250 inch with no problems and bring you up to close 11:1 compression. You need octane boost with higher compression. A pint of diesel fuel to ten gallons of gasoline
should work just as well as octane boost and cost isn't prohibitive. Be careful putting in larger valves. That takes away from your Bronze valve seats and makes them run hotter and the seats
will come out and kill your whole motor. I still prefer the smaller valves and the round ports of the A12 head over the larger vales and square ports of the A14 head, even on the A14 block.
There is a better tunnel ram effect with the round ports and unless you are in strict competition, you will never notice the smaller valves. A little porting and polishing will do wonders to
the A12 head. Keep he B110 rolling. They are very rare now and are still the best car ever engineered for the money. Some cars handle better, some are quicker and some get better gas milage
but none are better on all three accounts especially with a modified motor and suspension. I'll tell you later what to do to with a stock strut to make it better if it does not have an insert
in it. Strut inserts suck very badly. Let me know about the dist.
Doug

The reason that I sent PAECO's dual valve spring ssetup back was because they almost didn't even look like the right ones for my car! Their diameter was smaller, so they would have some
freeplay in the spring seat. The coils on the springs was made out of thinner metal than the stock springs. The biggest reason I sent them back was because their dual springs were not as stiff
as the stock springs when compressed. I took the whole setup to Performance Engine Development, the people who did my engine, and they said the stock setup would work better than the ones
PAECO sent me. They also said the aluminum retainers were okay for racing, but wouldn't hold up on something driven every day. I was going to use the stock outer valve spring with PAECO's
inner spring, but they were wound the same direction and if installed like that at high rpm's the coils could get stuck between each other and cause a valve not to open/close fully. I'm sure
PAECO makes great stuff, just their valve springs didn't impress me at all.

You were saying something about an RX-7 rearend fitting into the 1200 with minimal mods??? What year RX-7? What kinds of mods? Are those limited slip rearends and do they have disk brakes? I
am always hungry for any kind of 1200 info.

Talk to ya later.

-Andy

Hey Andy,
The RX7 rear is the right size and it only needs your spring/shock mounts welded to it. Yes, most are LSD and have disc. I have never done the job but I have seen one from an early 80's
installed.
The PAESO springs are smaller because of stronger metallurgy, don't be confused by size of materials as they are built for racing. You have to use inner and outers together to get proper
usage. I had crome/moly retainers and keepers. No way stock springs are as good. They don't have to have very much more tension to them, just enough to stop floating. On the first engine I
built, I cut down Chevy springs, that worked well but had too much tension. Too much tension is friction and friction is the enemy to high RPMs/HP. Crane Cams reground my first cam with a mild
street grind for $100 but that was in 1981. I still have that cam and engine but I got an air leak on my intake and during boost, it burned a piston and got the cylinder wall. I built the A14
for it with the A12 head next. That was the PAECO valve train.
Mareo

Here in the land of Aussie a Datsun Stanza is rear wheel drive 5spd box behind a 1600. I wish I could find a 5 spd from a 210 but they are hard to find over here and whats the go
with an RX7 rear end dosn't it need a cut and shut to get the right width to suit.......be a strong diff tell me more

The RX7 is also a small auto. Like I said, I have never done it but I have seen one rear end conversion.
There has been a lot of discussion on here about the Stanza struts being modified to fit the 1200, so this is not the front wheel drive Stanza. I wonder if or which US model this is. The only
rear drive model sold here since the mid 1982 is the 200SX and 240SX and there was a 510 model in the late 70's and early 80's. Of course, the 300ZX and Maxima were rear drive but they
changed to fwd. The 510 had the NAP-Z DOCH engine.
My uncle has a scrap yard here and ever so often he gets a 210 model in that has a 5-speed. Trannys go for $100 US. I am not sure what shipping would cost but I could ship a tranny to you.
Some shafts were the same but some have the same shaft as the automatic. I think he has a couple of 5-speeds in the bin now. Would you like for me to check on that? Most 210's here were 5-
speeds. Does anyone know if the 210 struts will fit in the 1200? I have the inserts in my struts and they do not last very long and they are too soft.

From all that I have heard and seen, the 79-82 210 front struts will bolt right on to the 1200. The older B210 struts will not (74-78). When I heard that the 210 ones worked, I swindled
myself a pair of 78 B210 GX struts and restored them before finding out they wouldn't work. I am going to try to do this swap before school starts in September. Supposedly with those 79-82
210 struts/brakes you can fit bigger discs from a Subaru and 4 piston calipers from a Volvo. The stock 210 brakes are bigger than the 1200's anyway. I'll have to do some junkyard roaming to
find out about the brake swapping. I'm going to put those struts in with some new Koni inserts from a place online. The Koni's I have now in the 1200 struts are stiff, but they were used when
I got them.

As far as 210 5 speeds, there's a place in Tacoma, WA I can get them from. There's usually at least one or two good ones every time I go. Some of them are thrashed, so I have to pick and
choose wisely. Even if it was a thrashed one, it'd probably be cheaper to buy, ship, and rebuild one over there than pay as much as they are going for in AU. If I had spare time I would love
to send some 5 sp. trannies to you guys in Australia. Maybe even trade a few of those trannies for Weber 45 DCOE intake/carbs??? Now that would be cool! I just have to find someone who'd want
to do something like that. Maybe even trade for some other parts too. Talk to everyone later.

-Andy

I saw a tehc article about stanza struts into a 1200, and I remember it saying something about some small mods that
had to be done.
Slap me! But I didn't save it to my fav's,so I'll have to look it up and get the web address again.
It had photos and a step by step too.
C-Ya
Steve