Hey all. I've got a 1200 ute. It's got the standard rotors on it. Im putting in new wheel bearings. I'm unsure about the way which the big one goes in (closest to the rotor). I'm unsure if its the same way as the old one, since that one had got water in it and might have been wrong...

for the big bearing: they are conical in shape.
which way does the smaller diameter side go...and which way round does the seal go (the spring side towards the rotor or away)?

sorry if its pretty unclear.

Thanks.
matt

Try and picture an HOUR GLASS turned on it side. Both bearings should taper in towards the centre of the hub. Basically it can only go in one way. Once you bash the new cone into the hub the bearing will sit in it neatly. If you bash either the big or small cone in the wrong way around the either bearing will not seat. The water in the old bearing could have been from the previous seal being either worn or fitted incorrectly. IT WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PUT ON A HUB WITH INCORRECTLY FITTED BEARINGS I.E. CONES IN THE WRONG WAY AROUND. Hope this helps.

Sounds like you should have bought a workshop manual before you took on a job that you know nothing about. The whole thing is clearly illustrated & described in there.

I suggest that you keep this link & check on it periodicly as manuals show up here quite cheaply most of the time.

The taper of both inner & outer cones goes in toward each other.
The outer ring [the cup] goes into the hub first, then the back, or inner bearing cone goes in & the seal goes in last with the main lip towards the bearing. This seal is intended to keep the grease in but many seals also have a smaller lip that is intended to keep dirt away from the main sealing lip in an attempt to prolong its life. It seems to work.

Make sure that you get the wheel bearing grease right in between the rollers on the inside of the steel cage before you try to assemble & adjust it.

P.S. Never 'BASH' any precision part like a rolling element bearing.
Tap the cup gently but firmly with a suitable punch or drift & hammer around its perimiter by working from one side across to the other. The objective is to avoid cocking the bearing in the bore & damaging both it & the hub.

Backyard butchers 'bash' things, but mechanics [professional or otherwise] do it properly.

Thanks for your help Bundy and Dodgeman.
Yeah, the main problem for me yesterday was being hung over and tired...couldn't think properly - hence pulling the bearings out and not paying attention. I did put the bearings in the right way however, i'm just a bit unsure about the seal bit.

Dodgeman i'm think i know what you mean by the 'main lip' of the seal facing the bearing, but i want to be sure....


This is the old seal, is this the main lip facing the camera? So the rotor would be situated behind the seal in this position?

Thanks again
-matt

PS. I'll buy a manual, when i HAVE to, 'cause i'm a very impoverished student.

This is the view that the bearing sees when installed. The other side is what you see, when it's installed.

The Gregories Manual often goes for as little as $5 if the cover is a bit greasy, but the info is still priceless when you need it.
You make your money back on the first stuff-up that you don't make as a result of having it.
If you can afford what it costs to get hung over, you can afford a manual instead.

this a small tip,when I last did my bearings I kept the race ( the part the bearing runs on ) this is then used to sit on the new one and you hit that with hammer and there is a lot less that you with stuff the new one as you hit it.
I have also cut the input shaft from an old stuffed gearbox and that is my clutch aligning tool.